Bent Crossmember - S2000 Forums

Bent Crossmember

Old 10-11-2016, 07:01 PM
  #1  
2009 Rio Yellow/A7E/A330
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Bent Crossmember

I just performed a brake bleed and while the wheels were off I checked things out underneath. I found this crossmember bent in the middle. It stretches between the rear wheels just forward of the diff. I am unable to locate it in various schematics and I am not sure how critical this thing is especially with the distortion you see. I am inclined to pull it down to get it as close to straight/level as possible. I would be willing to replace it with an intact one but I am not sure how to properly torque the critical bolt to the subframe. It looks like a few other non-structural bolts are used for supporting other items. So, bend it back or replace? Something bigger going on here?

I am pretty sure what caused the damage. About 6 months ago, driving at walking speed on a terrible, narrow road with a jagged asphalt edge, blinded going in and out of shadows facing the afternoon sun, I jerked to the right avoiding another driver in the middle coming around a bend. The right rear wheel went into a hole and went off the pavement into soft earth. I heard and felt it bottoming out on the edge of the asphalt road. An inspection on the spot revealed nothing.

I noticed a very slight change in the alignment of the car driving home. I checked it out at home and found only a little bent metal on the "C" shape of the crossmember and asphalt pieces in the very end (right side) of the crossmember. I did not notice the middle being bent. I had an alignment performed and it was indeed off slightly.




From the left rear tire looking forward.Name:  20161011_152359_001.jpg
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Looking aft
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Looking aft and up showing bolts etc.
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Old 10-12-2016, 05:17 AM
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Looks like #7 in this picture. If price is accurate, I'd just replace it.


http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...ry5=CROSS+BEAM
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Old 10-12-2016, 07:04 AM
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It is indeed #7 in Switchblades attachment. Easy replacement piece, just order it from your local dealer, shipping from R.I. isn't worth it.
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Old 10-12-2016, 08:22 AM
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2009 Rio Yellow/A7E/A330
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Thanks guys, that is what I will do.
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Old 10-12-2016, 05:30 PM
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$20 at local dealer, here tomorrow morning.
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Old 10-13-2016, 05:09 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by cosmomiller View Post
$20 at local dealer, here tomorrow morning.
Good deal! Easy fix!
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Old 10-13-2016, 10:02 AM
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Being the cheap bastard I am I would have put it in the press and straightened it, but hey at 20 bucks, can hardly go wrong.
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Old 10-13-2016, 08:05 PM
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Yep. I needed a new oil filter anyway. Much easier to remove and replace than I thought. I keep thinking about trying to stabilize some nut on the top while tightening. All I had were 4 structural bolts and the small ones for the charcoal canister. I just did it by hand, used the natural torque wrench.

Gave the old bent piece to my trunk monkey for a weapon.
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Old 10-14-2016, 07:13 AM
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Despite having 3 or 4 torque wrenches around I usually use the ol 'calibrated' elbow myself.
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Old 10-20-2016, 04:39 PM
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If you haven't already, I would get factory torque specs and torque it down to factory specs.
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Old 10-20-2016, 08:42 PM
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Well, I want to say someone told me/I read that it was around 30ft/lbs. I thought that was low. However when I removed the main bolts, all four were very easy to remove.
It is a 2009 with 60K miles.

I estimate I did closer to 60ft/lbs. No liquor, beer, wine or laughing tobacco was involved.

I don't think it does a great deal of stiffening. The subframe it attaches to is pretty robust. Plus its location makes me thing it doubles as protection for the diff. I got the feeling, after feeling it, that it is somewhat designed to be sacrificial.

Last edited by cosmomiller; 10-20-2016 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 10-21-2016, 06:19 AM
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Cos I think it actually stiffens it much more than you think. Looks like it transfers side load from the outboard wheel to the inboard wheel during corning and keeps the suspension rigid. When I was into Datsun Z's one of the upgrades were shock tower braces for the front and rear. Even I could tell the difference with them installed. Bet if you try corning hard without that brace on it will do a little stutter step across the pavement.
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Old 10-30-2016, 09:36 AM
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Did all the holes line up when you installed it? Just wondering if anything pulled in when it got bent.
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Old 10-30-2016, 12:17 PM
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That was a question that was on my mind. I picked up the new bar from the dealer and was thinking how I might approach it if there was indeed a problem with the holes being off a bit.

They were spot on perfect.

Now the holes are a little larger than the bolts so when the crosspiece was deformed and generated a closing force between the two opposite subframe structures, the bar either moved within the holes and / or the force was released in an elastic manner as the old bar was removed. The force of the event was not enough to extend past the plasticity of the subframe.

Nothing was pulled but my concern!
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