Help me do a brake job tool/parts check.

Old 03-26-2011, 01:58 PM
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Help me do a brake job tool/parts check.

I plan on replacing front pads and rotors tomorrow. Here's my parts/tools list. If I've forgotten something, please ring in.

1. new Honda rotors
2. EBC Red pads
3. Copper anti-seize lubricant
4. C-clamp (for compressing calipers pistons)
5. floor jack
6. jack stands
7. wheel chocks
8. nitrile gloves
9. torque wrench and complete socket set
10. caliper tool for resetting piston for parking brakes (I know I won't need this for the front brakes. )
11. Honda Factory S2000 Service Manual
12. Can of new, unsealed DOT4 brake fluid
13. Can of brake cleaner.
14. Can of WD-40.

Last edited by Doug3; 03-26-2011 at 02:11 PM.
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Old 03-26-2011, 02:23 PM
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Looks about right. You might need something to draw out some of the brake fluid from the MC. Turkey baster works great.

Are you going to bleed the system? If so it is front left, front right, back right and back left.

Is there a reason for not doing the rears?

Kevin
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Old 03-26-2011, 02:24 PM
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liquid refreshment?
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Old 03-26-2011, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mlc View Post
Looks about right. You might need something to draw out some of the brake fluid from the MC. Turkey baster works great.

Are you going to bleed the system? If so it is front left, front right, back right and back left.

Is there a reason for not doing the rears?

Kevin
At about 35k miles, the rears aren't close to needing replacement.
Since I'll be cracking the bleed screws open during piston compression, I'll only bleed the fronts. Hence, the chances of the MC needing fluid taken out are nil. If anything, I'll have to add fluid.
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Old 03-26-2011, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bbcricketta View Post
liquid refreshment?
I'll just huff some brake cleaner to relax.
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Old 03-26-2011, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by mlc View Post

Are you going to bleed the system? If so it is front left, front right, back right and back left.
Kevin
I've always bled the furthest brake from the MC first in the bleeding sequence. In the case of the S it would be:
1. RR
2. LR
3. RF
4. LF

Why do you suggest differently?
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Old 03-26-2011, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug3 View Post
At about 35k miles, the rears aren't close to needing replacement.
Since I'll be cracking the bleed screws open during piston compression, I'll only bleed the fronts. Hence, the chances of the MC needing fluid taken out are nil. If anything, I'll have to add fluid.
I am always am leary of opening the system to compress the calipers has it can possibly draw in some air. If you leave it closed then no worries.

Originally Posted by Doug3 View Post
I've always bled the furthest brake from the MC first in the bleeding sequence. In the case of the S it would be:
1. RR
2. LR
3. RF
4. LF

Why do you suggest differently?
I just read the service manual again and it shows the sequence I posted.

Kevin
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Old 03-26-2011, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by mlc View Post

I just read the service manual again and it shows the sequence I posted.

Kevin
Yup........that's the right sequence.

If you have the time, let the system bleed with gravity and not pressure or suction. The pedal feel when done is just that little bit harder with a gravity feed which indicates that it's a better job.
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Old 03-26-2011, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by mlc View Post
I am always am leary of opening the system to compress the calipers has it can possibly draw in some air. If you leave it closed then no worries.



I just read the service manual again and it shows the sequence I posted.

Kevin
Looks like I'll just take off the MC lid and compress the pistons while a neighbor monitors brake fluid level in the MC. (don't want an overflow)

I just read the service manual too and what you posted was correct even though it goes against ages old conventional wisdom. In other words, you were right and I was wrong.
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Old 03-26-2011, 06:25 PM
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VERY large phillips head screw driver and a mallet to break the set screws loose on the rotors. I had to do that twice and have since never put them back in. More of a pain in the butt than any kind of help.

Bungie cords to hold the calipers while you work on the rest. Keeps them from hanging by the hoses.

Wheel lock key if you have wheel locks.

Remember to line up the little **** on the rear brake pads with the slots on the caliper. Trust me, you don't want to forget that part. Makes a lot of smoke and heat if you don't when you are bedding in the new brake pads.



I don't know how others bed in the new pads, but I do 3-4 stops from each of these speeds:
10
20
35
45
55
65- if I can find a place to do it safely
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Old 03-26-2011, 06:32 PM
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Those two little screws are a PITA for sure. Don't get to pissed at them, just drill them out. They are only there for assembly of the car and won't hurt at all if they are not there.

Kevin
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Old 03-26-2011, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by gomarlins3 View Post
VERY large phillips head screw driver and a mallet to break the set screws loose on the rotors. I had to do that twice and have since never put them back in. More of a pain in the butt than any kind of help.
Although I have a very large phillips head, I'm afraid that a trip to Harbor Freight may be on tomorrow's agenda if the screws are really frozen with rust.

http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-...ase-37530.html
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Old 03-26-2011, 06:37 PM
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Also, I must find an unattended dumpster w/o cameras for old rotor disposal.
My town's trash guys surely won't take them.
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Old 03-26-2011, 06:59 PM
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Those screws are buggers! Broke 2 screwdrivers getting them out.



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Old 03-27-2011, 07:26 AM
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Yep. I haven't replaced the rotors yet, but I do know I'll be drilling out those screws when I do. Hopefully they're a soft metal.
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Old 03-27-2011, 07:32 AM
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They are pretty soft. I just used a drill bit slightly smaller then the screw and once you get past the bit catching on the phillips hole it goes really easy.

Kevin
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Old 03-27-2011, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by mlc View Post
Those two little screws are a PITA for sure. Don't get to pissed at them, just drill them out. They are only there for assembly of the car and won't hurt at all if they are not there.

Kevin
To prevent my rotors from flopping around when I'm trying to do a quick brake pad change at the track, I do put them back after buttering them up with a good dose of anti-seize compound.

Then when I pull the bottom bolt, re-seat the piston with a long screwdriver through the middle of the caliper, attach a bungie and swing the caliper up to expose the pads, the rotor stays in place while I swap pads.
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Old 03-27-2011, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim21680 View Post
Yep. I haven't replaced the rotors yet, but I do know I'll be drilling out those screws when I do. Hopefully they're a soft metal.
These work too:

http://www.google.com/search?q=snap-on+%09PIT160
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:42 PM
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I had to get an impact screwdriver at Harbor Freight ($5). It worked great, screws came out fine.
Other than the unexpected trip to HF, the brake job went according to plan. It took < 2.5 hours and I work methodically.
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Old 03-27-2011, 07:47 PM
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I replaced the rotors in our 03 Accord because it would get a wicked shimmy under freeway speed braking. Did your car have the same issue? My S has 85k and and brakes like a dart (no shimmy). Is there a recommended time to change rotors? Glad your brake day went according to plan!
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Old 03-27-2011, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by theotter View Post
I replaced the rotors in our 03 Accord because it would get a wicked shimmy under freeway speed braking. Did your car have the same issue? My S has 85k and and brakes like a dart (no shimmy). Is there a recommended time to change rotors? Glad your brake day went according to plan!
My car was braking perfectly, the pads were getting thin so I replaced them. AFAIK, there's no specific mileage point that mandates replacement. I just monitor pad and rotor thickness and replace as needed.
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Old 10-30-2011, 06:25 AM
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Curious...is it absolutely necessary to open the bleeder when pushing the caliper back in??

Is that an alternative to having the MC cap open? Or do the ABS systems require that the displaced fluid be taken out at the caliper??
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Old 10-30-2011, 06:41 AM
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You might pick up another can of brake fluid just in case, and don't throw the rotors in a dumpster, take them to a recycling facility.
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Old 10-30-2011, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Vanishing Point View Post
and don't throw the rotors in a dumpster, take them to a recycling facility.
You're about 7 months too late.
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Old 10-30-2011, 09:25 PM
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I was the one to resurrect this ole' thread...did my front pads today.

So, I did indeed open the bleeder while recompressing the pistons. It worked better than having to suck out fluid from the MC, especially since I just bled my brakes about 2 weeks ago. (Wish I had done the pads then, if I had them). Other than that, I pulled & lubed the caliper pins, sanded down the rotors, used some anti-seize on the mounting & pin bolts, as well as the surface between the rotor and axle mount. I was happy to get rid of those pesky little rotor screws too; I only had to drill one out.

It's nice to be back on metallic pads. They're worth the extra dust maintenance.

Browsing through some Youtube service vids, I came across a little Honda hiccup known as "captive rotors", from older Accords. Geesh! Whyyyyyy???!??

Last edited by Jim21680; 10-30-2011 at 09:30 PM.
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