Installing ILP turbo kit

Old 04-30-2008, 12:01 AM
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Installing ILP turbo kit

This is a thread where I plan to put some pics and comments about installing the ILP turbo kit.

I started the build late yesterday and didn't have the time to do very much, but will take pictures and post comments after the next session in the garage. I will do the install myself.

Check back in 2 days or so, there might be an update.

Partlist features.
ILP turbokit with gt3076r .82a/r
675cc injectors
Aem ems
No compression change. (Might lower compression and change clutch later on)
Aiming for 330-350whp, lets see how far I can get with 8psi of boost. Will most likely build a tubular manifold to replace the cast one as soon as I get the time after the car is up and running with the cast one.

Small update 2008-04-30:
I finally got a time at a tuner the 14th of May. Thats 2 weeks from today. I will be running E85 and I will raise the fuelpressure to 4bar. My 675cc injectors are a tad too small to handle 330-350whp on E85. The fuelpump has some overcapacity tho, so I think I will be fine.

Update on why I chose E85. 2008-04-30: I was talking with Chris at ILP about knocking with a restrictive turbine housing (had the .48 a/r coming at first), and he questioned the tuner that said that. However, it seems both were right.
Here in Sweden we have 98 octane and 95 octane fuel. The 98 octane fuel here is almost equal in octane value to the 91 or 93 pump gas in the states. Additionally USA gas have other additions that makes for less knocking tendency. This and also the fact that the 98 here can under bad circumstances be as low as 93(!) octane which is significantly worse than the pump gas in the states.
The Swedish tuner I have been talking to had experience from engines tuned on pump gas in the states and then sent to Sweden for further performance upgrades. When they put those engines on the testbench, they instantly had to add 3-5% more fuel and change the ignition to avoid knocking. This confirms big differences. 98 octane here in Sweden isn't very popular since it is more expensive than 95 and the fuel often end up laying in an underground tank for a long time and quality drops badly. Another example is a big twin engine boat tuned for maximum performance at 98 octane. They put the tune at the limit as it was the customers wish. When he refilled the tank the first time at a costal gasstation intended for boats, the engines blew. That 98 octane was probably one of those worse cases of bad quality.

There is a fuel sold by Shell here that is called V-Power, and that fuel is the only fuel that comes close to the pumpgas in the USA tuning wise. It is also more qualitystable due to that it is only one company supplying it. Ofcourse it costs more too.
E85 on the other hand, offers tuning very close to racing fuel, the difference is minimal.

Things to consider about E85 tho. The fuel increase requirement is not linear with regular gas. It might be needed 5% more at very low power levels and as high as 35% more at max power.

Update on some more 2008-05-01: Today was my first real buildday and I did manage to take some small steps forward. The chragepipes that leaves the enginecompartment through the "change bulb holes" proved to be a pain to get mounted. The headlights might be different on the european version, because nomatter how much I notched the lightholder, I still had to make a dent in the pipe to get it together. The intercooler was abit taller than the one featured on the install pictures that came with the ILP kit. That caused me some headache too. (Overall the installation instructions are far from complete.) They are made for experienced people with the ability to figure things out themselves. Anyway the intercooler is in place now (painted flat black on the front side to be stealthy ).
I did drain the engine from coolant fluid and oil. Then installed ILP's oil filter relocation kit, which had better instructions and wasn't hard at all. I am concerned about not using the oil cooler, but according to Chris at ILP the cooler does only a 3-5degC difference, and therefor can safely be removed. Sounds odd tho, as I will be adding more heat to the oil from the turbo and then also removes the cooling. Finally I dropped the oilpan to install the oil return coupling. Thats the status right now, hopefully I will be dealing with the fuelpump tomorrow and get the oilpan back in place.
I did take several pictures and will be posting some tomorrow.

Update 2008-05-02: Today I fixed the oilpan and got it back under the car. The oil connector install became superb. Also took out the plastic covers over the fueltank, so tomorrow there will be working with that one. Didn't work as many hours as intended today since other things came in between. Took some pictures of the small progress. Hope to post em when I sort the trouble I had with photobucket today.

Update 2008-05-04: Had some building done during saturday and sunday. Started to do the fuelpump. Went smooth no big issues. Used an instruction I found on s2ki.com made by another member. Very handy. Then I started with the fuelrail and ran into bigger problems when the injectors didn't seal satisfactory in the stock injector seat. I modified them to use the same rubber sealing as the stock injectors. Much better.
Took me hours to decide how to do it tho, and trying to figure what was the intention really. I doubt they were meant to fit. Also mounted the turbo and the clearence to the frame is maybe 3mm. VERY TIGHT. Not a perfect solution in my eyes, but I won't change it now. Would rather put some momentum support to the engine to prevent it from moving the wrong direction. Airfilter installed and and the other chargepipe on the right side of the car. Had to dent this pipe also. Simply not possible to make it fir without notching the rounded square shaped hole into the engine compartment where bulb changes are made to be done through. *sigh* Did all the lines to the turbo, oil and water. Again I wouldn't mind some better instructions for the installation. I agree tho that most is logical and can be figured out. Still this is my first turbo kit experience and I have done several things two times. Finally I mounted the blow off valve and the wastegate. Things to do now is to get the downpipe in place together with the dumptube. I intend to connect the dumptube to the downpipe, so there will be some modificatoins and welding and cutting to get it to fit. At the fuelrail I will drill another hole to put a pressure measurement just for the tuning occation. The aem is still in the box, and it will need installation too. Some more hoses need to be redirected and some pipes need to be removed or plugged. I need to sort out the engine vent. List goes on. Overall it is more work than I expected, but I do enjoy most of it.
The ILP kit is in my experience not a 100% complete kit. 98% of the parts are there, but some need to be modified pretty much and the work invloves removing many stock items. However the parts in the kit looks to be very good quality and hopefully the end result will be great. Chris at ILP is always trying to help when I call him to ask something.

I do wonder how the kraftwerks kit for the ap1s will turn out, since that one and this one will be pretty much in the same pricerange. For stock appearnce I suspect SC would have been better, but for best performance I might be on the right track.

Last edited by Wheazel; 05-04-2008 at 04:44 PM.
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Old 04-30-2008, 12:02 AM
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Intercooler painted flat black for stealth. Want to look as stock as possible.

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Unfortunately the wrong turboflange was delivered to my homemade tubular so that one havent even been started. Need to get a new one when everything else up and running.


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Intercooler is too tall. I got an "intercooler upgrade" to "800hp" intercooler even if they knew I were going for 330-350whp. This only gave me an unnessecary headache in my opinion.

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How the install finally were done. The plastic wasn't able to reach the old position.

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Chargepipes did not fit according to the very few instructions. Might be european lights that are different from american lights.


Finally in place, both light and chargepipe.

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Time for fuelpump. Narrow place. The plastic cover the softtop rests on was abit tricky to get out. Took me at least 20minutes.

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Where the tank insert with pump was. Easy to remove tho. 8pcs 8mm hex screws and one 10mm hexscrew. fuellines are fast connectors and were disconnected in 2sec.

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The walbro 255lph pump is slightly bigger than the stock one.

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Removed some drillchip from the oilfilter relocation kit. Overall the things looks good and the instructions for this kit was at a much higher level than the turbokit in general.

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Lower part of the oilfilter relocation kit installed. The arrowed waterlines that went to the oilcooler I removed, will be going to the turbo instead.


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Upper part installed and ready. The arrowed piping will be replaced with hoses since it will look abit different when it is ready. New engine vent need to be made. the ringed electronic device sat on the stock airbox. I dont know what it is but will put it somewhere. Don't plan to remove it.

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Fuelrail dismounted. The hat in the middle is apperently some fuel pulsation reducer. Reduces pressurespikes from the pump to make the injectors job easier.

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Changing the fuelrail stands to longer ones supplied in the ILP kit.

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Above is stock injector below is supplied 675cc siemens deka injector from ILP. The electronic connectors need to changed with ones supplied in ILP kit too.

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I could not get the siemens deka injectors to fit correctly in the stock injector seat. Where they were supposed to go, was no real good sealingsurface so i trashed the idea to use those orings. Instead I decided to make something that worked.

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Acidprof spacer being modified to fit injector.

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Accurate measurements made to assure things will fit.

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New modified injectors ready. They use the sealing from the stock injectors and therefor use the sealing surface that is satisfactory. The rubber sealings were mounted towards the spacer with durable blue silicone. The spacer sits tight to the injector and is reinforced behind with high quality epoxy.

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Testfitted. Looks good.

Last edited by Wheazel; 05-05-2008 at 08:24 AM.
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Old 04-30-2008, 12:19 AM
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'Sounds interestin' Wheaz.
'Lookin' forward to watchin' your progress, especially the tubular manifold fabrication.
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Old 04-30-2008, 06:24 AM
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true that it sounds cool....well be waitin
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Old 04-30-2008, 03:28 PM
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Have fun and good luck.
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Old 05-02-2008, 03:55 PM
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Problems with photobucket solved here are some more pics.

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As I wanted 4 bar fuelpressure I ran into some trouble, BUT after some talking to a friend he told me it was often possible to adjust an unadjustable fuel pressure valve to higher pressure. Said and done. The result is prefect I testpressurized it with compressed air and it releases at 4.05bar. (58,7 psi) Simply dent the housing to tighten the spring abit more . I need to test if the fuelpressure can stay at 4bar during idle, if it becomes higher, that means the valve can't open up enough due to my treatment. Hopefully I will both have 4bars at idle and full throttle. The full power test can't be determined until I am tuning tho.

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How I did the water to the turbo and return oil.

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Welded the pan to assure no leaks in the future. Good result. Good thing the supplied connector was aluminum too.

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Pan connection from the outside.

Last edited by Wheazel; 05-05-2008 at 08:26 AM.
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Old 05-04-2008, 04:37 PM
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Updates are up
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Old 05-12-2008, 04:44 AM
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The car has been started! I got some more pics to post when I take myslef the time to write the rest. Tunertime in 2 days.
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:48 AM
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wow nice ILP turbo kit installation. by the way where is the finish product? we'd like to see some photos please..
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Old 03-08-2010, 07:28 PM
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Aplogizes for forgeting this old thread, the s2ki forums are usually alot more active so this fell off my mind. I do not have any pictures of the car at hand because I moved on to a 2008 instead. Turbobuilt as well. Tuned the summer of 2009 to 420 wheel horsepower. The second build is much better due to all experience i collected the first time around. It also includes a self fabricated tubular manifold and stainless dual exahust. Used the turbo and other parts(that i thought were good enough) from the first car. Changed enginemanagement to Hondata Kpro due to the drive by wire compatibility.

Last edited by Wheazel; 03-08-2010 at 07:35 PM. Reason: Clearification and typos
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Old 04-07-2010, 11:04 PM
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why did you switch to a 2008? I thought it was easier to tune the sub 2006 models.
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