S2000 DIY repair info in here, check it out

Old 04-28-2009, 06:31 PM
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Thumbs up S2000 DIY repair info in here, check it out


Last edited by Spartanic; 05-04-2009 at 07:44 PM.
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Old 04-28-2009, 07:00 PM
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Can i get a radiator install/removal? Or is it to easy lol
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Old 04-28-2009, 07:01 PM
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This is what I call a first post!
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Old 04-28-2009, 07:02 PM
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Old 04-28-2009, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by RL1924 View Post
This is what I call a first post!
I agree! welcome aboard
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Old 04-29-2009, 06:17 AM
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great post thank a bunch
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Old 06-07-2009, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by s2k01 View Post
Can i get a radiator install/removal? Or is it to easy lol
The radiator shouldn't be too hard to remove. All it really is is removing the upper and lower hose and then a few bolts here and there and it'll come loose. Of course drain the coolant first.
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Old 06-07-2009, 01:54 PM
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We should sticky this.
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Old 06-07-2009, 01:56 PM
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this is one kick *** exhaust!
(this pix is from the Exhaust System DIY)

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Old 06-08-2009, 03:08 PM
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Its an ASM unit that you probably wont be able to find here in the states.
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Old 07-08-2009, 01:27 PM
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do u have any info on removing the tranny???
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Old 07-08-2009, 01:48 PM
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Could be wrong.. but I know me not knowing how to take off the tranny a DIY would not be the best way to attempt and tackle that.. I could be wrong though
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Old 07-08-2009, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by franke View Post
do u have any info on removing the tranny???
If you are up for it here you go http://forums.s2kca.com/showthread.php?t=14201


Kevin
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Old 07-08-2009, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by mlc View Post
If you are up for it here you go http://forums.s2kca.com/showthread.php?t=14201


Kevin
Ekk... too much risk for me
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:46 AM
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by mlc View Post
If you are up for it here you go http://forums.s2kca.com/showthread.php?t=14201


Kevin
thanks

Last edited by franke; 07-10-2009 at 10:59 AM.
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Old 07-12-2009, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by franke View Post
do u have any info on removing the tranny???
I could probably brew something up. Be on the lookout soon...
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Old 07-12-2009, 09:14 AM
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in the clutch

im sure that the clutch diy post has the trans in it you do have to move it to get to the clutch.
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Old 06-07-2010, 06:33 AM
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Arrow factory s2k manuals

You can buy Honda factory service manuals from Helm Inc. I purchased the main drivetrain ect. and it is awesome hope this helps
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Old 07-04-2010, 12:38 PM
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MLC do you know the average life expectancy of the 2Litre if properly maintained (lot of rpms) makes the car rock but has to have effect on longevity (saw that you were online right now)
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Old 07-04-2010, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by red rider View Post
MLC do you know the average life expectancy of the 2Litre if properly maintained (lot of rpms) makes the car rock but has to have effect on longevity (saw that you were online right now)
If I might interject, all else being in good condition the bulk of the wear is when you start it up. Wouldn't suggest redlining all day but other than that I don't see the wear being accelerated.
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Old 11-18-2010, 10:33 AM
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Update needed on DIY links
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Old 02-06-2011, 05:45 PM
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can i get a diy for the easiest way to removing and installing a thermostat ?
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Old 09-08-2011, 08:47 AM
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LilRomeolc,

Here is the most straight-forward procedure for replacing the thermostat in an AP1 S2000:

1) Drain the engine coolant.

2) Remove the lower radiator hose (refer to this AP1 radiator diagram if need be) and the thermostat cover, then remove the thermostat.



3) Install the thermostat with a new rubber seal.

4) Install the thermostat cover and the lower radiator hose.

5) Refill the radiator with engine coolant, then bleed air from the cooling system.

6) Clean up any spilled engine coolant.

7) You're doneskys
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Old 09-09-2011, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by s2k01 View Post
Can i get a radiator install/removal? Or is it to easy lol
S2k01,

Here is the procedure for replacing the radiator on an AP1:

1) Drain the engine coolant.

2) Remove the upper and lower radiator hoses. (illustrated in this S2K cooling diagram)

3) Detach the fan motor connectors and radiator fan switch connector.

4) Remove the radiator upper brackets and cushions, then pull up the radiator.

5) Remove both fan shroud assemblies and other parts from the radiator.



6) Install the radiator in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the upper and lower cushions are set securely.

7) Refill the radiator with engine coolant, then bleed the air from the cooling system.

Clean up any spilled engine coolant.

9) You're good to go, buddy!
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Old 09-12-2011, 11:20 AM
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What's up guys,

This is one killer thread so I'm sure that I'm not alone in feeling that it deserves a regular update I'd like to post the procedure for replacing the blower motor on a '04 S2000:

Where is the blower motor located?

The blower motor is located in the front passengerís right side foot well area. Here is a nice diagram of the blower motor in an AP2: '04 S2000 Blower Motor diagram

How do I replace the said motor?

1) If additional access is needed, remove the front passengerís right side lower kick panel.

2) If necessary, remove the blower motor cover.

3) Detach the electrical connectors from the blower motor.

4) Remove the fasteners on the blower motor mounting flange.

5) Remove the blower motor downward from the blower unit.

6) Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

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Old 09-13-2011, 10:34 AM
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What's up once again guys,

I noticed that the throttle body replacement procedure isn't included in this thread so here is the walk-through for AP1s:

1) The following illustration shows how to remove as well as install the throttle body:



**Additionally, here is another exploded diagram of the S2000 Throttle Body system

2) After reassembly, adjust the cruise control actuator cable, as follows:

a) Hold the cable sheath, removing all slack from the throttle cable.

b) Turn the adjusting nut (A) until it is 3 mm (1/8 in.) away from the throttle cable bracket. Tighten the locknut (B). The throttle cable deflection should now be 4-6 mm (0.16-0.24 in.).



c) Remove the actuator cover, then disconnect the actuator cable end from the cruise control actuator.

d) Turn the adjusting nut (A) until it is 9 mm (0.35 in.) away from the actuator cable bracket when the throttle linkage starts open.



e) Pull the cable so the adjusting nut (A) touches the bracket, and tighten the locknut (B).

f) Make sure the throttle linkage starts open when the actuator cable is pulled 9 mm (0.35 in.) from the starting point by rotating the actuator linkage.



3) Adjust the throttle cable as follows:

a) Check cable free play at the throttle linkage. Cable free play (A) should be 4-6 mm (3/16-1/4 in.).

b) If free play (A) is not within spec (4-6 mm, 3/16-1/4 in.) loosen the locknut (B), turn the adjusting nut (C) until the free play is as specified, then retighten the locknut.

c) With the cable properly adjusted, check the throttle valve to be sure it opens fully when you push the accelerator pedal to the floor. Also check the throttle valve to be sure it returns to the idle position whenever you release the accelerator pedal.

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Old 09-13-2011, 10:56 AM
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Nice job tracking this stuff down.
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:22 AM
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No worries, man


I'm surprised that no one has posted up the procedure for replacing the window motor and regulator. So I'll be "that guy" and post 'er up!


Note: This procedure requires the use of KTC Trim Tool Set SOJATP2014 and Trim pad remover, Snap-on A 177A or equivalent, commercially available tools. Take care not to scratch the door panel and door. Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components

Note: This procedure is for an AP2 S2K but it may also apply to AP1s as well.

1) Remove the door panel in the numbered sequence shown in the accompanying illustration. Remove the door panel with as little bending as possible to avoid creasing or breaking it.



2) Remove the lock switch and switch panel from the door panel. Detach the electrical connector, then remove the switch.

3) Remove the inner door handle and rod crank.

4) Remove the plastic cover.

5) Remove the door glass and regulator in numbered sequence:
a) Hold the adjusting bolts with a hex wrench when removing the locknuts.
b) Mark a line around the stabilizer mounting bolt, the glass mounting bolts,
and the regulator mounting nuts to show the original locations. (refer to this diagram if necessary)

6) Install the glass and regulator in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
a) Hold the adjusting bolts with a hex wrench when installing the locknuts.
b) Before installing the regulator, apply multipurpose grease to all the sliding surfaces of the regulator.
c) Make sure the connector is plugged in properly.
d) Roll the glass up and down to see if it moves freely without binding.
e) Make sure that there is no clearance between the glass and roof weatherstrip when the glass is closed.
f) Test-drive and check for wind noise and rattles.
g) When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed around its perimeter.

7) Install the door panel in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
a) Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones.
b) Make sure the connectors are plugged in properly.
c) Push the clips into place securely.
d) Check the window and power door lock operations.
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Old 09-16-2011, 12:34 PM
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I have a plethora of these S2000 technical write-ups with this thread's name on it, so brace yourself fellow stookers


Today's write-up documents how to replace the heater core on a S2000. Note that this procedure applies to both the AP1 and AP2, so I have noted special steps applying to particular model years in the guide.

Disclaimer: This job is not for the faint of wrench, as it is quite hardcore!


1) Make sure to acquire the anti-theft code from the radio and write down the frequencies for the radioís preset buttons.

2) Disconnect the negative battery cable. After disconnecting the negative battery cable, wait for at least 3 minutes for the air bag module to deplete its energy before working the on the instrument panel or steering wheel.

3) Drain the engine coolant. Disconnect the heat shield from the exhaust manifold (refer to this AP2 Exhaust Manifold diagram for relevant bolts). Remove the battery.

4) Discharge the air conditioning system. Disconnect the suction and the receiver lines from the evaporator core.

5) From under the hood, open the cable clamp. Disconnect the heater control cable from the valve. Turn the valve arm to the fully open position.

6) Remove the mounting bolt from the heater valve. Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater unit. Remove the mounting nut from the heater unit.

7) Disconnect the air conditioning lines from the evaporator housing.

Remove the radio panel retaining clips and remove the panel. Remove the radio retaining screws and pull the unit forward. Disconnect the antenna lead and electrical connectors and remove the radio.

9) Remove the driverís side air bag. Remove the steering wheel and cable reel.

10) Remove the steering column covers.

11) Remove the combination switch assembly from the column shaft by disconnecting the connectors and removing the screws. Disconnect the ignition switch connectors from the under dash fuse/relay box.

12) Remove the steering joint bolt, at the base of the column. Remove the steering column retaining bolts and remove the column.

13) Remove the drivers side lower dash cover. Remove the passengerís side lower dash cover. Remove the drivers and passengers side front console cover.

14) Remove the passengerís side air bag assembly.

15) Remove the kick panels and A-pillar trim from both the drivers and passengerís side.

16) Disconnect all electrical connectors, air hoses and harness that interfere with the removal of the dashboard. Remove the ground bolts.

17) Open the driverís side door remove the bolts and clips after remove their protective caps. Lift upward on the dashboard/steering hanger beam to release if from the guide pins. Be sure all electrical connectors are unplugged.

1 Remove the blower/evaporator housing from the vehicle.

19) Remove the mounting bolts, the center brackets and the radio mounting brackets.

20) Remove the SRS unit. Remove the defroster outlet and wire harness clips.

21) Disconnect the connectors from the mode control motor and the air mix control motor. Remove the wire harness clip.


**View of the heater housing, evaporator housing and related components-S2000**

22) Remove the mounting nuts, the mounting bolts and remove the heater unit from the vehicle.

23) Remove the heater core cover. Remove the heater core.

--Installation--

Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

1) Evacuate, charge and leak test the air conditioning system refrigerant.

2) Operate the engine to normal operating temperatures; then, check the climate control operation and check for leaks.

3) Enter the antitheft codes for the radio and the navigation system. Set the clock.

4) On 2001-05 vehicles, reprogram the ECM engine idle characteristics. Be sure all electrical items are OFF.

5) Start the engine. Hold the idle speed at 3000 RPMís in neutral until the radiator fan comes on or the temperature reached 176 degrees.

6) Let the engine idle for about five minutes with the throttle fully closed.

7) If the radiator fan comes on during the five minutes, do not count this toward the five minute programming time.

On 2006 vehicles, reprogram the ECM engine idle characteristics. Be sure all electrical items are OFF.

9) Reset the ECM with the HDS. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Wait two seconds.

10) Start the engine. Hold the idle speed at 3000 RPMís in neutral until the radiator fan comes on or the temperature reached 194 degrees.

11) Let the engine idle for about five minutes with the throttle fully closed.

12) If the radiator fan comes on during the five minutes, do not count this toward the five minute programming time.
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Old 09-20-2011, 09:54 AM
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Hey guys,

I'd like to once again supplement this extensive thread with a walk-through for replacing the fuel filter on an AP1


1) Relieve the fuel system pressure by performing the following:

2) Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the fuel fill cap. Remove the intake manifold cover.

3) Position the proper size wrench on the fuel pulsation damper at the fuel rail.

4) Place a shop towel over the fuel pulsation damper.

5) Slowly loosen the fuel pulsation damper on complete turn.

6) Replace all washers whenever the fuel pulsation damper is loosened or removed.

7) Remove the fuel pump from the tank.
Remove the fuel filter from the pump module.


(diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow. All rights reserved, etc. etc. )

9) Install the new filter on the pump module.

10) Install the fuel pump in the tank.

11) Reinstall the intake manifold cover.

12) Replace the fuel fill cap.

13) Reconnect the battery cable.

14) Start up the S2K and go for a test drive
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:11 AM
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What's up fellow stookers,

I'd like to kick this thread up yet another notch by adding the procedure for replacing the fuel pressure regulator


1) Place a shop towel under the fuel pressure regulator, then relieve fuel pressure, as outlined in my previous DIY article.

2) Disconnect the vacuum hose and fuel return hose.


*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com

3) Remove the two 6 mm retainer bolts (A) and the fuel pressure regulator (B).


**Pictured here: (A) Retaining bolts, (B) Fuel Pressure Regulator and (C) O-ring

-Installation-

1) Apply clean engine oil to a new o-ring (C), and carefully install it into its proper position.

2) Install the fuel pressure regulator and the 6 mm retainer bolts.

3) Reconnect the vacuum hose and fuel return hose.

4) Turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not operate the starter. After the fuel pump runs for about 2 seconds, the fuel pressure in the fuel line rises.

5) Repeat this two or three times, then check whether there is any fuel leakage.

6) Take 'er for a spin! Well..not literally of course
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Old 09-27-2011, 11:13 AM
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Thanks HondaHead. Keep 'em coming.
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Old 09-28-2011, 10:08 AM
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How-To: Replace the Oil Pump on an AP1 & AP2


**Oil Pump Mounting Bolts pictured here**

1) Note the radio security code and the radio presets. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2) Remove the cam chain. Remove the oil pan. (I'll post a D.I.Y. on this soon )

3) Remove the oil pump chain tensioner. Remove the baffle plate.

4) Remove the oil pump retaining bolts. Remove the oil pump, oil pump chain and crankshaft sprocket.

To install:

1) Remove any old gasket from the mating surfaces. Be sure these surfaces are clean and dry.

2) Squeeze the new oil pump chain tensioner and then install the set clip.

3) Install the crankshaft sprocket, oil pump chain and oil pump. Install the baffle plate.

4) Set the crankshaft sprocket so that the number one piston is at TDC. Align the key on the sprocket and crankshaft with the pointer on the engine block.

5) Move the cam chain so that the colored piece aligns with the punched mark on the crankshaft.

6) Install the oil pump chain guide and the oil pump chain tensioner with the seat clip.

7) Remove the set clip from the oil pump chain tensioner.

Continue the installation in the reverse order of the removal procedure.

9) After assembly, wait at least thirty minutes before filling the engine with clean engine oil.

10) Do not run the engine for at least three hours after installing the oil pan.

11) As required, reprogram the power window control unit as follows:
  • Turn the ignition switch ON. Lower the window, all the way down. Open the driverís side door.
  • Turn the ignition switch OFF. Push and hold the drivers window DOWN switch. Turn the ignition switch ON. Release the driverís window DOWN switch. This must be done within five seconds.
  • Repeat the above step three more times. Wait one second.
  • Confirm that the AUTO UP and AUTO DOWN do not work. If they work repeat the procedure, paying close attention to the five second time limit
  • Move the driverís window all the way down by holding the drivers window DOWN switch to the AUTO DOWN position.
  • Pull up and hold the driverís window UP switch to the AUTO UP position until the window reaches the fully closed position. Hold the switch for one second.
  • Confirm that the power window master switch has been reset by using the driverís window AUTO UP and DOWN function.
  • If the AUTO UP and DOWN feature is still not working, repeat the complete procedure, paying close attention to the five second time limit.

12) Set the clock.


*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com
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Old 09-29-2011, 10:47 AM
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DIY- Removing the Oil Pan on AP1 and AP2s

-Removal-

1) Note the radio security code and the radio presets. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2) Drain the engine oil. Raise and support the vehicle safely.

3) Remove the oil pan retaining bolts. Drive an oil pan seal cutter tool between the oil pan and engine block. Cut the oil pan seal by striking the side of the tool along the oil pan

4) Remove the oil pan from the vehicle.


*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com; all rights reserved


-Installation-

1) Remove any old gasket from the mating surfaces. Be sure these surfaces are clean and dry.

2) Apply liquid gasket, part number 08717-004, 08718-0001, 08718-0003 or 08718-0009 evenly to the engine block mating surface of the oil pan.

Note: Do not install the parts if more than four minutes have elapsed since applying the liquid gasket. Instead, reapply after removing the previous coating material.

3) Position the oil pan in place. Tighten the oil pan retaining bolts in two or three steps to specification and in the proper sequence:


**Oil pan torque sequence is pictured here**

4) Continue the installation in the reverse order of the removal procedure.

5) After assembly, wait at least thirty minutes before filling the engine with clean engine oil.

6) Do not run the engine for at least three hours after installing the oil pan.

7) As required, reprogram the power window control unit as follows:
  • Turn the ignition switch ON. Lower the window, all the way down. Open the driverís side door.
  • Turn the ignition switch OFF. Push and hold the drivers window DOWN switch. Turn the ignition switch ON. Release the driverís window DOWN switch. This must be done within five seconds.
  • Repeat the above step three more times. Wait one second.
  • Confirm that the AUTO UP and AUTO DOWN do not work. If they work repeat the procedure, paying close attention to the five second time limit
  • Move the driverís window all the way down by holding the drivers window DOWN switch to the AUTO DOWN position.
  • Pull up and hold the driverís window UP switch to the AUTO UP position until the window reaches the fully closed position. Hold the switch for one second.
  • Confirm that the power window master switch has been reset by using the driverís window AUTO UP and DOWN function.
  • If the AUTO UP and DOWN feature is still not working, repeat the complete procedure, paying close attention to the five second time limit.
  • Set the clock.
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Old 09-30-2011, 09:33 AM
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Serpentine Belt Inspection & Replacement

Inspection:

A good rule of thumb is to inspect the drive belts every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) or 12 months (whichever occurs first). On manually adjusted multi-ribbed V-belts, measure the belt tension at a point halfway between the pulleys by pulling or pressing on the belt with a known force and measuring how far the belt moves, referred to as the amount of deflection. Note that ďdeflectionĒ is not free-play, but the ability of the belt, under actual tension, to stretch slightly and give. The specification for measuring belt tension includes the amount of force applied to the belt, and the amount of defection (movement) the belt should have when the force is applied. The amount of deflection varies depending on whether the belt is new or used. Although the manufacturer markets a specific tool for measuring belt deflection, a fishermanís spring scale capable of measuring a 22 lb. (98 N) pull and a small ruler can be substituted for this tool.

Inspect the belts for the following signs of damage or wear: glazing, cracking, fraying, crumbling or missing chunks. A glazed belt will be slightly brittle and perfectly smooth from slipping, and may exhibit a screeching noise when the engine is suddenly accelerated or first started. A good belt will have a slight texture of fabric visible and the surface should be soft and flexible. Cracks will usually start at the inner edge of a belt and run outward. A belt that is fraying will have the fabric backing de-laminating itself from the belt. A belt that is crumbling or missing chunks will have missing pieces in the cross-section of the belt, some times these chunks will be stuck in the pulley groove and not easily seen. All worn or damaged drive belts should be replaced immediately. It is best to replace all drive belts at one time, as a preventive maintenance measure.

Both multi-ribbed V-belts and serpentine belts can be checked for wear by inspecting the physical condition of the belt. To check belt stretch on multi-ribbed V-belts, look at the amount of adjustment that remains on the sliding portion of the adjustment bracket, or the threaded portion of the adjustment screw. If the adjustment range has is at its fully extended portion, the belt should be replaced.

Serpentine drive belts should be inspected for rib chunking (pieces of the ribs breaking off), severe glazing, frayed cords or other visible damage. Any belt which is missing sections of 2 or more adjacent ribs which are 1/2 in. (13mm) or longer must be replaced. You might want to note that serpentine belts do tend to form small cracks across the backing. If the only wear you find is in the form of one or more cracks are across the backing and NOT parallel to the ribs, the belt is still good and does not need to be replaced.

To check belt stretch on a serpentine belt, look at the range indicator on the tensioner assembly. The tensioner arm has a pointer that is compared to a small rectangular reference block on the tensioner mounting bracket. If the tensioner pointer has reached or is beyond the edge of the inspection block, the belt has stretched beyond its wear limits and should be replaced.

Replacement:

1) Place a long-handled, boxed-end wrench or a belt tension release tool (A) on the drive belt auto-tensioner from above the engine. Slowly turn the wrench in the direction shown to release the tension, then remove the drive belt.


**Step shown here: Move the auto tensioner (A) to remove the serpentine belt (B)**

Note: This is a hydraulic type auto-tensioner; you must turn the wrench slowly.

2) Install the new belt in the reverse order of removal.

The serpentine belt routing is depicted here:


*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com; all rights reserved
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Old 09-30-2011, 04:54 PM
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:48 AM
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Szoppo- Indeed you can, but this thread is more ideal for us D.I.Y cheapskates

Replacing the Steering Wheel


1) Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the radio station presets.

2) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery and wait AT LEAST 3 minutes before proceeding.

3) Align the front wheels straight ahead, then remove the driver's airbag from the steering wheel, as follows:
  • Remove the access panel from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag connector from the cable reel.
  • Remove the two Torx bolts using a Torx T30 bit, then remove the driver's airbag.

4) Disconnect the horn switch connector and the cruise control set/resume switch connector, and loosen the steering wheel bolt or nut.

5) Install a commercially available steering wheel puller (A) on the steering wheel (B). Free the steering wheel from the steering column shaft by turning the pressure bolt (C) of the puller.

6) Be aware of the following points when removing the steering wheel:
  • Do not tap on the steering wheel or the steering column shaft when removing the steering wheel.
  • If you thread the puller bolts (D) into the wheel hub more than five threads, the bolts will hit the cable reel and damage it. To prevent this, install a pair of jam nuts (E) five threads up on each puller bolt.


**Shown here: Use a suitable steering wheel puller (A) to remove the steering wheel (B)**

7) Remove the steering wheel puller, then remove the steering wheel bolt (nut) and steering wheel from the steering column.

-Installation-

1) Before installing the steering wheel, make sure the front wheels are aligned straight ahead, then center the cable reel (A). Do this by first rotating the cable reel clockwise until it stops. Then rotate it counterclockwise about two and a half turns. The arrow mark (B) on the cable reel label point should point straight up.


**Shown here: Center the cable reel (A) by first rotating the cable reel clockwise until it stops. Then rotate it counterclockwise about two and a half turns. The arrow mark (B) on the cable reel label point should point straight up**


2) Position the two tabs (A) of the turn signal canceling sleeve (B) as shown, and install the steering wheel on to the steering column shaft, making sure the steering wheel hub (C) engages the pins (D) of the cable reel and tabs of the canceling sleeve. Do not tap on the steering wheel or steering column shaft when installing the steering wheel.


**Shown here: Position the two tabs (A) of the turn signal canceling sleeve (B) as shown, and install the steering wheel on to the steering column shaft, making sure the steering wheel hub (C) engages the pins (D) of the cable reel and tabs of the canceling sleeve**


3) Install the steering wheel bolt or nut and tighten it to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm).

4) Connect the horn switch connector and the cruise control set/resume switch connector.

5) Install the driver's airbag, and confirm that the system is operating properly.

6) Check the horn and turn signal canceling for proper operation.

7) Connect the negative battery cable.

Perform the ECM/PCM idle learn procedure, as follows:
  • Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear defogger, lights, etc.) are off.
  • Start the engine, and hold it at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine coolant temperature reaches 194 ļF (90 ļC).
  • Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed.

Note: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes.

9) Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the radio station presets. Finally, reset the clock.

Additional steering wheel diagram:


*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com; all rights reserved
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Old 10-04-2011, 09:36 AM
  #38  
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Replacing the Ignition Switch


1) Disable the air bag system:
'01-'05 models- SRS disconnection procedure '01-'05
'06+ models- SRS disconnection procedure '06+

2) Disconnect the negative battery cable.

3) Remove the lower panel of the dashboard.

4) Remove the knee bolster.

5) Remove the steering column covers.

6) Unplug the connectors from the underdash fuse block.

7) Remove the steering column upper and lower covers.

8 ) Position the ignition switch to the ď0Ē position.

9) Remove the two screws that secure the switch to the mount.

10) Pull the ignition switch away from the mount.

11) Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.


*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com; all rights reserved
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Old 10-05-2011, 01:45 PM
  #39  
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Replacing the Front, Side and Rear Turn Signal Bulbs

Front-

1) Start the car and turn the front wheels all the way to the right to change the driver's side bulb, and all the way to the left to change the passenger's side bulb. Turn off the engine.

2) Detach the fender cover from the wheel well to access the rear of the turn signal. Use a flat screwdriver to pry up the middle of the three clips that hold the cover in place at the front of the wheel well, and pull the clips out of the cover.


*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com; all rights reserved


3) Turn the lower socket in the headlight assembly 1/4 turn counterclockwise, and pull the socket out of the assembly.

4) Pull the old bulb out of the socket, and insert the new bulb.

5) Insert the socket into the headlight assembly, and lock it into place by rotating it clockwise. Check to make sure the new bulb is working.

6) Reattach the fender cover by inserting the clips and pushing the center of the clips down to lock them into place.


Side-

1) Slide the side turn signal assembly towards the front of the car. Use a small flat screwdriver to pry the assembly gently out of the car body. Place a rag over the end of the blade to avoid scratching the paint.

2) Rotate the bulb holder counterclockwise 1/4 turn, and remove it from the turn signal assembly.

3) Pull out the old bulb and insert the new one.

4) Replace the socket and rotate it clockwise to secure it. Check to ensure the bulb is working.

5) Snap the tail light assembly back into the car body. Place the rear of the assembly in first, and slide it to the rear while pushing inward.


Rear-

1) Open the trunk. Remove the two clips that hold the trunk lining in place behind the tail lights by prying up the centers with a flat screwdriver and pulling the clips out. Move the lining out of the way.

2) Rotate the outer socket counterclockwise to release it from the tail light, and pull it out.

3) Pull the old bulb out of the socket and replace it.

4) Insert the socket into the tail light and rotate it clockwise. Check to make sure the bulb is working.

5) Replace the lining and insert the two clips. Press down the centers to lock them in place.

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Old 10-06-2011, 04:43 PM
  #40  
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Replacing the Power Mirror Motor



1) Remove the power mirror from the door (refer to the diagram at the end of this post for reference).

2) Remove the door sash holder and the plastic cover, as needed.

3) Disconnect the connector, and detach it from the door.

4) While holding the mirror, remove the nuts securing the mirror.

5) Record the terminal locations and wire colors.

6) Cut the wire harness with a wire cutter.

7) Carefully pull out the bottom edge of the mirror holder by hand.

8 ) Separate the mirror holder from the actuator by slowly pulling them apart.

9) Remove the screws and the actuator from the housing.

-Installation-

1) Route the wire harness of the new actuator through the hole of the mirror housing, then install the new actuator in the reverse order of removal.

2) Insert the terminals into the connector in the original arrangement as shown.


**Shown here: Insert the terminals into the connector in the original arrangement**


3) Reassemble the mirror in the reverse order of disassembly.

4) Be careful not to break the mirror holder when reinstalling it to the actuator.

5) Operate the power mirror to check that the actuator works smoothly.


*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com; all rights reserved
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