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S2000 DIY repair info in here, check it out

S2000 DIY repair info in here, check it out

Old 10-07-2011, 09:17 AM
  #41  
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Replacing the Power Window Switch



Note: This procedure requires the use of KTC Trim Tool Set SOJATP2014 and Trim pad remover, Snap-on A 177A or equivalent, commercially available tools. Take care not to scratch the door panel and door. Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.


1) Remove the door panel in the numbered sequence shown in the accompanying illustration. Remove the door panel with as little bending as possible to avoid creasing or breaking it.


**Step shown here: Door Panel Removal and Installation**


2) Remove the window switch and switch panel from the door panel. Detach the electrical connector, then remove the switch.

To install:

Install the window switch panel in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
  • Check for damaged or stress-whitened clips, and replace them with new ones.
  • Make sure the connectors are plugged in properly.
  • Push the clips into place securely.
  • Check the window and power door lock operations.


*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com;; all rights reserved
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Old 10-10-2011, 12:08 PM
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Replacing the Windshield Wiper Motor



1) Open the hood, and remove the cap nuts and the wiper arms.

2) Remove the hood seal and cowl cover.


**Shown here: Open the hood, and remove the cap nuts and the wiper arms. Then remove the hood seal and cowl cover**


3) Disconnect the 5P connector (A) from the wiper motor ( B ).

4) Remove the bolts, then remove windshield wiper linkage assembly (C).


**Shown here: Connector (A), Wiper motor ( B ), Windshield wiper linkage assembly (C)**


5) Remove the three mounting bolts and nut from the wiper linkage (A) to remove the wiper motor ( B ).


**Shown here: Wiper linkage (A) and Wiper motor ( B )**


-Installation-

1) Install the wiper motor in the reverse order of removal, and note the following:
  • Grease all moving parts.
  • Before reinstalling the wiper arms, turn the wiper switch ON, then OFF to return the wiper shafts to the park position.
  • If necessary, replace any damaged clips.
  • Check the wiper motor operation.


*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com; all rights reserved
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Old 10-11-2011, 09:19 AM
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Combination Switch Replacement



1) Disable the air bag system, as outlined in one of my previous DIY posts.

2) Disconnect the negative battery cable.

3) Remove the driverís side lower dashboard cover and knee bolster.

4) Remove the steering column covers.

5) Remove the steering wheel, as outlined in an earlier DIY post.

6) Disconnect the harness by gently depressing the tab on the connector and pulling.

7) Remove the combination switch mounting screws, then remove the switch.

8 ) Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.



**Shown here: A Phillips screwdriver may be required to remove the steering column covers**



**Shown here: Removal of the combination switch**




*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com; all rights reserved
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Old 10-13-2011, 09:16 AM
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Replacing the Outer Tie Rod Ends



1) Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2) Remove the front wheel/tire assembly.

3) Loosen the outer tie rod end locking nut 1/8 turn.

4) Matchmark the tie rod end to the threaded shaft.

5) Remove the cotter key and castle nut from the outer tie rod end threaded spindle, and using a tie rod end removal tool, separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle.

6) Hold the tie rod with a wrench, and remove the outer tie rod end from the threaded rod, counting the number of complete turns it takes to remove the tie rod end from the shaft. Write the number of turns on a piece of note paper.


-Installation-


1) Apply a light film of an anti-seize compound onto the threaded tie rod end, and install the tie rod end lock nut.

2) Install the tie rod end onto the tie rod, turning it exactly the number of turns it took to remove it.

3) Install the tapered spindle of the tie rod end into the knuckle and tighten the castle head nut to:
  • Models using a castle nut: 29-35 ft. lbs. (39-47 Nm)
  • Models using a non-castle nut: 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm)

4) Install a new cotter pin in the tie rod end threaded spindle.

5) Tighten the tie rod end lock nut.

6) The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

7) Have the front end alignment checked and adjusted as necessary.



*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com; all rights reserved
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Old 10-14-2011, 03:56 PM
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Replacing the ABS Hydraulic Control Module



1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2) Remove the modular unit mounting bolts.

3) Detach the pump motors connectors.

Note: Always use a flare nut wrench on the fittings, to prevent stripping of the flare nuts.

4) Disconnect the brake lines using a flare nut wrench.

5) Remove the modular unit from the bracket assembly.


-Installation-


1) Install the modulator unit.

2) Connect the brake lines, using a flare nut wrench. Tighten the fittings to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm).

3) Connect the modulator unit.

4) Attach the pump motor connectors.

5) Bleed the brake system beginning with the left front brake caliper. Bleed each fitting until all air is removed.

6) Connect the negative battery cable.

7) After starting the engine, check to make sure the ABS lamp is not illuminated.

8 ) Drive the vehicle and check that the ABS light does not come on.

9) Check and clear codes as necessary.



*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com; all rights reserved
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:55 PM
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Replacing the A/C Compressor



Note: It is highly recommended that a MVAC-trained, EPA-certified, automotive technician should service the A/C system or its components. However, if you choose to perform this job on your S2000, then please familiarize yourself with the A/C system precautions before starting the job


1) If the A/C compressor is marginally operable, run the engine at idle speed, and let the air conditioning work for a few minutes, then shut the engine off.

2) Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio's preset buttons.

3) Disconnect the negative battery cable.

4) Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/recycling/charging station.

5) Remove the air cleaner housing.

6) Remove the alternator.

7) Remove the nuts, then disconnect the suction line (A) and the discharge line (B) from the A/C compressor. Plug or cap the lines immediately after disconnecting them to avoid moisture and dust contamination.


**Shown here: Suction line (A) and the discharge line (B)**


8 ) Disconnect the A/C compressor clutch connector, then remove the mounting bolts and the A/C compressor.


**Shown here: Disconnect the A/C compressor clutch connector, then remove the mounting bolts and the A/C compressor**


9) If necessary, remove the mounting bolts and the A/C compressor bracket.


**Shown here: A/C compressor bracket mounting**


10) Install the A/C compressor in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
  • Tighten the retainers to the specifications shown in the accompanying illustrations.
  • If you're installing a new A/C compressor, you must calculate the amount of refrigerant oil to be removed from it.
  • Replace the O-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil before installing them. Be sure to use the correct O-rings for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage.
  • Use refrigerant oil (KEIHIN SP-10) for HFC-134a KEIHIN spiral type A/C compressor only.
  • To avoid contamination, do not return the oil to the container once dispensed, and never mix it with other refrigerant oils.
  • Immediately after using the oil, reinstall the cap on the container, and seal it to avoid moisture absorption.
  • Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint. If the refrigerant oil contacts the paint, wash it off immediately.
  • Charge the system, as outlined in this section.
  • For 2001-05 models, perform the ECM idle learn procedure, as follows:
  • Leave the IAC valve connected.
  • Before checking the idle speed, check these items:
  • The MIL has not been reported on.
  • Ignition timing
  • Spark plugs
  • Air cleaner
  • PCV system
  • On Canadian models, pull the parking brake lever up. Start the engine, then check that the headlights are off.
  • Disconnect the EVAP canister purge valve 2P connector.
  • Connect a tachometer.
  • Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, then let it idle.
  • Check the idle speed without load conditions: headlights, blower fan, radiator fan, and air conditioner off. The idle speed should be 750-850 rpm.
  • Let the engine idle for 1 minute with high electric load (A/C switch ON, temperature set to Max cool, blower fan on High, and head light on high beam). The idle speed should be 850-950 rpm.

Note: If the idle speed is not within specification, do the symptom troubleshooting.
  • Reconnect the EVAP canister purge valve 2P connector.
  • For 2006 models, perform the ECM idle learn procedure, as follows:
  • Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, rear window defogger, lights, etc.) are off.
  • Reset the ECM with the HDS.
  • Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 2 seconds.
  • Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine coolant temperature reaches 194 ļF (90 ļC).
  • Let the engine idle about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed.


**Shown here: Test connections for the idle learn procedure-2001-05 models**


11) Enter the anti-theft code for the radio, then enter the audio presets.


--The A/C Compressor is ref #2 in the diagram below--


*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com; all rights reserved
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Old 10-20-2011, 09:01 AM
  #47  
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Replacing the Intake Manifold Gasket


1) Drain the cooling system.

2) Relieve the fuel system pressure.

3) Remove or disconnect the following:
  • Negative battery cable
  • Cooling hoses from the intake manifold
  • Vacuum hoses and electrical connectors from the manifold and throttle body
  • Throttle cable from the throttle body
  • Fuel rail and fuel injectors
  • Intake manifold support brackets
  • Intake manifold


**Shown here: Intake Manifold and its related components**


-Installation-



1) Clean all gasket mating surfaces.

2) Torque the intake manifold retaining nuts to specification.

3) Continue the installation in the reverse order of the removal procedure.

4) Reprogram the power window control unit as follows.

5) Turn the ignition switch ON. Lower the window, all the way down. Open the driverís side door.

6) Turn the ignition switch OFF. Push and hold the drivers window DOWN switch. Turn the ignition switch ON. Release the driverís window DOWN switch. This must be done within five seconds.

7) Repeat the above step three more times. Wait one second.

8 ) Confirm that the AUTO UP and AUTO DOWN do not work. If they work repeat the procedure, paying close attention to the five second time limit
Move the driverís window all the way down by holding the drivers window DOWN switch to the AUTO DOWN position.

9) Pull up and hold the driverís window UP switch to the AUTO UP position until the window reaches the fully closed position. Hold the switch for one second.

10) Confirm that the power window master switch has been reset by using the driverís window AUTO UP and DOWN function.

11) If the AUTO UP and DOWN feature is still not working, repeat the complete procedure, paying close attention to the five second time limit.


--Additional Intake Manifold diagram--

*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com; all rights reserved
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Old 10-21-2011, 08:55 AM
  #48  
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Replacing the Upper Control Arms



1) Raise and support the vehicle safely. Remove the front tires.

2) Remove the flange bolts and the wheel speed sensor harness from the upper arm.

3) Remove the lock pin from the upper arm ball joint. Remove the castle nut.

4) Remove the upper arm ball joint from the knuckle using the proper ball joint removal tool.

5) Remove the flange bolts and the upper arm.


--Installation--


1) Installation is in the reverse order of the removal procedure.

2) Torque the control arm retaining bolts to 75.9 ft. lbs.

3) Be sure to use new flange bolts, castle nut and lock pin.

4) Check and adjust the vehicle's front end alignment.



*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com; all rights reserved
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Old 10-24-2011, 04:06 PM
  #49  
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Crankshaft Position Center Replacement

1) Remove the CKP sensor (A).

2) Disconnect the CKP sensor connector (B).

3) Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Use a new OĖring (C).

4) Do the CKP pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure below the diagram.



**Shown here: CKP sensor (A), CKP sensor connector (B), sensor OĖring (C)**



1) Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on.

2) TestĖdrive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm down to 1,000 rpm in 1st gear.

3) Repeat step 2 several times.

4) Turn the ignition switch OFF.

5) Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait for 30 seconds.



*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com; all rights reserved
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Old 10-26-2011, 09:28 AM
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Replacing the Pinion Seal



1) Drain the axle housing fluid.

2) Disconnect the negative battery cable.

3) Remove the rear wheels.

4) Remove the driveshaft.

5) Remove the brake calipers and pads.

Note: The brake calipers and pads must be removed so that there is no additional drag when measuring pinion bearing preload.

6) Use an inch lb. torque wrench and measure and record the amount of torque required to maintain pinion rotation through several revolutions.

7) Remove the pinion flange.

8 ) Remove the pinion seal.

9) Remove the pinion bearing.

10) Remove the collapsible spacer.


--Installation--



Note: Use a new collapsible spacer and flange nut for assembly.


1) Install or connect the collapsible spacer.

2) Install the pinion bearing.

3) Install the pinion seal.

4) Install the pinion flange.

5) Rotate the pinion flange occasionally while tightening the flange nut to make sure the pinion bearings seat correctly.

6) Tighten the flange nut to 94 ft. lbs. (127 Nm) and then measure bearing preload torque.

7) Continue tightening the flange nut to achieve the bearing preload torque originally measured. Do not exceed 210 ft. lbs. (284 Nm) flange nut torque.

If using new pinion bearings, add 8-12 inch lbs. (0.88-1.37 Nm) to the originally measured bearing preload.

Caution: Never loosen the pinion nut to reduce bearing preload. If it is necessary to reduce bearing preload, install a new collapsible spacer and pinion nut.

9) Install or connect the following:
  • Driveshaft
  • Brake calipers and pads
  • Wheels
  • Negative battery cable

10) Fill the differential with gear lubricant and check for leaks.



*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com; all rights reserved
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Old 10-28-2011, 04:02 PM
  #51  
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Replacing the Fuel Pump



Note: The radio may contain a coded theft protection circuit. Always obtain the code number before disconnecting the battery.


Caution: The fuel injection system remains under pressure, even after the engine has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to follow this procedure may result in fire, explosion, or personal injury.


1) Relieve the fuel system pressure.

2) Disconnect the negative battery cable.

3) Remove the fuel tank filler cap.

4) Remove the rear package tray.

5) Remove the fuel pump access panel.

6) Disconnect the fuel pump electrical harness.

Note: Clean the fuel line fittings before disconnecting them.

7) Disconnect the quick connect fitting from the pump assembly.

8 ) Remove the fuel tank retaining bolts. Remove the fuel tank unit from the vehicle.


--Installation--


1) Be sure to use a new base gasket.

2) When installing the fuel tank unit, align the marks on the fuel tank and the fuel tank unit.

3) Make sure the electrical connections are secure and the connector firmly locked in place.

4) Make sure the fuel line connections are secure and the connector firmly locked in place.

5) Continue the installation in the reverse order of the removal procedure.



*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com; all rights reserved
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Old 11-08-2011, 03:10 PM
  #52  
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Replacing the Sway Bars



Front and Rear:
**Note that the front and rear procedure is essentially the same, save for the tires you'll remove**

1) Raise and support the vehicle safely. Remove the front tires. Remove the splash shield.

2) Remove the self locking nuts while holding the joint pin. Disconnect the stabilizer links from the stabilizer bar on the right and left sides.

3) Remove the flange bolts and bushing holders. Remove the bushings and the stabilizer bar from the vehicle.

To install:

1) Position the assembly to itís mounting on the vehicle.

2) Install the mounting bolts.

3) Continue the installation in the reverse order of the removal procedure.


*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com; all rights reserved
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Old 11-09-2011, 10:04 AM
  #53  
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Replacing the Steering Linkage



1) Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2) Remove the front wheel/tire assembly.

3) Clean the steering rod between the steering boot and outer tie rod end lock nut with a suitable penetrating lubricant and a clean cloth or shop towel.

4) Loosen the outer tie rod end locking nut 1/8 turn.

5) Loosen the steering boot clamp(s), and slide the small clamp off the boot.

6) Carefully loosen the boot and slide outward off the steering rack and onto the shaft to expose the inner steering rod mounting fastener.

7) If necessary, position the inner steering rack shaft in or out to allow for additional access.

8 ) Relieve the steering rod nut locking tab from the inner steering rack shaft, then loosen the steering rod ball socket nut 1 turn.

9) Matchmark the tie rod end to the threaded shaft.

10) Remove the cotter key and castle nut from the outer tie rod end threaded spindle, and using a tie rod end removal tool, remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle.

11) Hold the tie rod with a wrench, and remove the outer tie rod end from the threaded rod, counting the number of complete turns it takes to remove the tie rod end from the shaft. Write the number of turns on a piece of note paper.

12) Remove the tie rod end lock nut from the threaded steering shaft.

13) Slide the steering rack boot off the shaft.

14) Remove the inner steering rod ball socket nut from the inner steering rack shaft.


--Installation--


1) Inspect the tie rod end for looseness, and the steering rack boot and tie rod end boot for cracks deterioration or damage and replace as necessary.

2) Clean steering rack shaft and apply a light coating of Genuine Honda Power steering fluid as necessary.

3) Apply a medium strength locking agent to the threads where the inner steering rod ball socket mounts. Use a new locking washer and a new stop washer, and install the inner tie rod onto the steering rack shaft.

4) Tighten the inner tie rod end fastener to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)

5) Peen the lock washer over the nut or onto the flat surface of the steering rack shaft.

6) Apply silicone grease to the outer circumference of the inner tie rod end ball socket, and onto the groove just outside of the socket.

7) Apply silicone grease to the inside of the small end of the steering rack boot, and slide the boot over the steering shaft and onto the rack and install the boot clamps. If the boot has air hose fittings make sure they are installed as removed.

8 ) Apply a light film of an anti-seize compound onto the threaded tie rod end, and install the tie rod end lock nut.

9) Install the tie rod end onto the tie rod, turning it in exactly the number of turns it took to remove it.

10) Install the tie rod end following the tie rod end installation procedures in this section

11) The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

12) Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.



*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com; all rights reserved
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Old 11-10-2011, 04:04 PM
  #54  
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EVAP System Operation Testing



When testing the EVAP system for proper operation, there should always be a pressure differential between the fuel tank pressure and atmospheric pressure. If any of the tests reveal a pressure differential of less than .02Ē Hg (.067 kPa/.5mm Hg), the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) will interpret this condition as a leak.

1) Verify the condition of the EVAP system by performing the following visual inspections:
  • Ensure that the fuel filler cap is installed and properly secured.
  • Inspect the charcoal canister for physical damage such as cracks, broken or cracked fittings, damage from road debris, or rodent damage.
  • Inspect all EVAP control devices (EVAP and purge control system monitors, controllers, and actuators) for physical damage such as cracks, broken or cracked fittings, damage from road debris, or rodent damage.
  • Inspect all hoses and vacuum line connections for proper routing and placement.
  • Inspect all electronic control devices for proper electrical connections.
  • Inspect the condition of all fittings and seals for damage, drying, or wear.
  • Inspect the condition of all hoses and vacuum lines for displacement, damage, or wear.

If any physical defects are evident, verify the operation of any questionable components before replacement.

2) Verify the operation of the EVAP system by performing any or all the following tests:
  • Using a suitable scan tool, perform an actuator (active) test to verify the correct operation of EVAP control devices (EVAP and purge control system monitors, controllers, and actuators).
  • Using a smoke machine, verify that the EVAP system does not exhibit any physical leaks.
  • Using a suitable EVAP system pressure tester, verify that the EVAP system is properly sealed against positive and negative pressure.
  • Using a suitable EVAP system pressure tester along with a suitable scan tool, monitor the EVAP pressure under positive and negative pressure conditions.



*diagram courtesy of hondapartsnow.com; all rights reserved
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:46 AM
  #55  
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Thanks for this information. Is this pretty much applicable for AP2's? If it's easy could you put down in general what the major differences would be. I have a 2007, Thanks!
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:49 AM
  #56  
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Application of AP1 DIY to AP2

Thanks for this information. Is this pretty much applicable for AP2's? If it's easy could you put down in general what the major differences would be. I have a 2007, Thanks!
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:37 AM
  #57  
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Someone asked about radiator installation. Here is a nice video with detailed steps.


Thanks
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Old 02-27-2013, 10:14 PM
  #58  
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Can you please post an engine removal, it not working, thank you
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Old 03-13-2013, 05:34 AM
  #59  
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DIY Changing the Air Filter

Can anyone provide instructions on replacing the Air Filter in an AP2?
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Old 02-21-2016, 11:25 AM
  #60  
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Is it possible to fix the links on the 1st post? I'm getting 404 errors.
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Old 02-21-2016, 03:20 PM
  #61  
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Fixing first post

Originally Posted by photog72 View Post
Is it possible to fix the links on the 1st post? I'm getting 404 errors.
I haven't been here in quite a while. What info are you looking for?
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Old 02-21-2016, 03:58 PM
  #62  
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phil:

great to see your name again. not much going on here. you still slinging it around in the banana? how's the ticker? this place just ain't the same.

the links are almost 7 years old and are probably inaccessible. looks like some good stuff though. you might want to try s2ki.com or s2kca.com.

shalom
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Old 02-21-2016, 06:55 PM
  #63  
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Hey BB good to see your name again. After my response here I went to JJ's old site, kinda to acknowledge him in tribute. after writing my thoughts and posting them, there was a message that I was not logged in. I was! The message disappeared.

Still pushin the old banana around one of the most dangerous roads in the country, according to an old show on ABC. I'll be 83 in July so I'm a little more careful going in to the corners. Still full tilt coming out though! Reflexes are probably not as sharp as when I was a lad of 70. Still no problem getting in or out so I'm not old yet.

The ticker is doing fine. Came through with no problems, although, the pig valve was over 5 hours and touch and go. The doctors were amazed at how well I looked after. State of mind is everything. Kind of rough on the spouse though. We're celebrating our 63rd this month.

Ciao for now,
Phil
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Old 02-22-2016, 07:44 AM
  #64  
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Nice to hear from you Phil!!!
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Old 02-22-2016, 11:41 AM
  #65  
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Hey Switch!
Good to see some of the old names are still around. Hope all is well and you're still braving the PA weather. My old banana still drives like new and yellow is a good color for L.A. Makes me more visible to the idiots who think they can drive and text.

Be of good cheer!
Phil
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Old 05-04-2016, 03:09 PM
  #66  
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Great info !
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