Go Back  S2000 Forums > Technical > Engine Tech / Drivetrain
Clutch Change Procedure Question >

Clutch Change Procedure Question

Clutch Change Procedure Question

Old 04-20-2009, 08:25 AM
  #1  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Silver Shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 65
Clutch Change Procedure Question

Hello. I am currently replacing the clutch on my S2000. I removed the drive belt and I have the alternator pushed to the side. I see the top and bottom starter bolts. Do I just need to remove the top bolt or do I need to remove the bottom one as well? I am using a 20 inch extension to reach the top one. From my read on the repair manual, I am guessing that only the top starter bolt needs to be removed since it connects through the engine and into the transmission. Am I also correct to think that the bottom bolt just connects the starter to the engine and doesn't need to be touched? Please advise.
Silver Shadow is offline  
Old 04-20-2009, 08:55 AM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
TheCarGuy2021's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Manhattan Beach, CA
Posts: 1,327
Yup, just the top one needs to be removed.
TheCarGuy2021 is offline  
Old 04-20-2009, 07:21 PM
  #3  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Silver Shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 65
Thanks. I backed out that bolt and left it sitting there for now. I am worried about being able to put it back during reassembly. I am hoping to just let it ride there during the rest of the clutch change.

Tomorrow I hope to remove the exhaust manifold and propeller shaft. I am going at a slow pace stopping by the garage for a couple hours after work each day.

Now that I have had a solid look around underneath... How difficult will it be to put that transmission back on? I am working under jackstands.
Silver Shadow is offline  
Old 04-20-2009, 07:55 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
TheCarGuy2021's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Manhattan Beach, CA
Posts: 1,327
Originally Posted by Silver Shadow View Post
Thanks. I backed out that bolt and left it sitting there for now. I am worried about being able to put it back during reassembly. I am hoping to just let it ride there during the rest of the clutch change.

Tomorrow I hope to remove the exhaust manifold and propeller shaft. I am going at a slow pace stopping by the garage for a couple hours after work each day.

Now that I have had a solid look around underneath... How difficult will it be to put that transmission back on? I am working under jackstands.

I managed to do mine on jackstands on a garage floor by myself. Just jack it up, line it up, and slide it on. Be sure you keep the transmission perfectly straight once the input shaft is splined to the new disk, otherwise you may break your new disk/bend the input shaft.
TheCarGuy2021 is offline  
Old 04-20-2009, 08:10 PM
  #5  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Silver Shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 65
Thanks for the input. I will be sure to keep the transmission straight.

I've seen a photo of a guy using a motorcycle jack to reinstall the transmission. Ever since seeing that photo I have been wracking my brain thinking of ways to build a makeshift lift out of the scissor jacks or something.

Since I am planning to replace the transmission oil anyways I will drain the fluid before the dismantling so that'll take off a few pounds.
Silver Shadow is offline  
Old 04-21-2009, 06:57 PM
  #6  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Silver Shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 65
Propeller Shaft Hex Nut Bolts. Your thoughts?

I've got everything else off. I have a 6mm hex socket and I tried unsuccessully to twist one off. I am afraid of rounding out those mfs! So I just wanted to post this to see if any of you guys had any good suggestions about going about it before I give them a little more muscle. Also, is it necessary to remove both ends of the shaft? Is it possible to just unbolt the transmission side and then secure the shaft to the side?
Silver Shadow is offline  
Old 04-21-2009, 07:07 PM
  #7  
mlc
Senior Member
 
mlc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 1,066
Read this it will help http://forums.s2kca.com/showthread.php?t=14201

Kevin
mlc is offline  
Old 04-21-2009, 07:29 PM
  #8  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Silver Shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 65
Nice write-up. I read it already and keep a hardcopy in the garage. But I would like to know if anyone had some tips with how to successfully pull out all of those hex bolts without rounding them out.
Silver Shadow is offline  
Old 04-21-2009, 07:39 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
TheCarGuy2021's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Manhattan Beach, CA
Posts: 1,327
If the manual calls for a 6mm hex, then keep using the 6mm. Once it is all in and square, hit it with a hammer. Gradually increasing pressure (slowly pulling it towards you harder and harder) is the most likely way to round them off. The impact of a hammer should break them free without rounding them off. Just make sure you double check that the hex socket is seated properly before striking the ratchet with a hammer.

Good luck!

Edit: Yes, you will want to remove both ends of the driveshaft, you'll want the extra room.

Last edited by TheCarGuy2021; 04-21-2009 at 07:42 PM.
TheCarGuy2021 is offline  
Old 04-21-2009, 08:05 PM
  #10  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Silver Shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 65
Thanks. I will give the hammer idea a try. I hope I don't end up cutting any off. But if I do round one out, should a cut a slot into the bolt and then use a pry bar to twist?

Once the shaft is off I just have to remove all of the wiring from the transmission, remove the slave cylinder, lower the engine subframe, and remove the transmission from the engine. I didn't know that it was not necessary to pull out the exhaust manifold to make room. I read that it just needs to be loosened away from the engine.

If I allow myself I could become worried that my car will never be perfect again. But the car is paid off and is mine to ruin. Please check in with this thread every once and again. I need your support.
Silver Shadow is offline  
Old 04-21-2009, 08:12 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
TheCarGuy2021's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Manhattan Beach, CA
Posts: 1,327
Follow the manual and you should be golden, sounds like you're doing good so far. Grinding a slot on a rounded off hex nut would be my first move. Worst case I would weld a hex wrench to the bolt and use a cheater bar.
TheCarGuy2021 is offline  
Old 04-22-2009, 06:27 AM
  #12  
Village Pyro
 
TheSoundMan21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 3,134
Girls got some guts dang... I might have to suck it up in about another 50,000 miles and do this myself. Shoot if I was nearby Id help.
TheSoundMan21 is offline  
Old 04-23-2009, 08:26 AM
  #13  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Silver Shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 65
Got Five of Six Hex Bolts Loosened. What to do with the last?

Ok. I used a hammer to first bang in the 6mm hex socket and then I used a breaker bar to successfully bust five of the six bolts on the tranny side of the shaft. The sixth one is rounded. Should I just cut the entire head of the bolt off? Or how should I cut it so that I can later extract the rest of the bolt that is attached to the transmission? Do I really need to remove the shaft from the differential? Please advise.

Also, I took a measure tape and measured the distance between the bottom of the car to the garage floor and it is 16inches. Is that high enough to pull out the tranny? Do I necessarilly need to pull it out from under anyways? What are your thoughts?
Silver Shadow is offline  
Old 04-23-2009, 08:32 AM
  #14  
Village Pyro
 
TheSoundMan21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 3,134
how heavy is our trans? Just curious cause that mustang unit was freakin huge.
TheSoundMan21 is offline  
Old 04-25-2009, 07:44 PM
  #15  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Silver Shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 65
I'll let you know how hard it was to lower and remove that transmission tomorrow after I do it. Those propeller shaft hex bolts are a bitch! I only was able to remove them all from the transmission side of the shaft which will have to be good enough. I had to cut into the top of a couple bolts and use a large screwdriver and crecent wrench to get them off. I order new ones for $2.60 from the Honda dealer. I've got the engine cradel resting on a jack and ready to be lowered. I am concerned about the clutch slave cylinder. After I removed it and tied it to the side the plunger seems to be barely inside the cylinder. It looks popped out. But I don't see any fluid leaking out. I've decided to just not touch it until installation and then test the clutch pedal before setting the car down. The wiring harnesses removal is time consuming and hair-raising. I hope I can remember how everything goes back. So far, the hardest part of the project has been those hex bolts. It will feel so good to have this project done. Word.

Last edited by Silver Shadow; 04-25-2009 at 08:06 PM. Reason: to add more details
Silver Shadow is offline  
Old 04-27-2009, 10:48 PM
  #16  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Silver Shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 65
Those top three tranny bolts are tough to remove! So far no luck. They won't budge. Tommorow I will pick up a 1/2 inch drive rachet and some 1/2 extensions and give it another go. Using all of these 3/8ths extensions is causing too much slack in the line which is not allowing me to put enough torque on the bolts. Lowering that engine 3in is crazy. I worry that I am damaging the hoses or wiring from the drop. I am going to remove the transmission tomorrow. So far, I am close to wishing that I just took it in and spent the money.
Silver Shadow is offline  
Old 04-28-2009, 07:17 AM
  #17  
Senior Member
 
Neil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Ontario
Posts: 2,225
I am going to remove the transmission tomorrow. So far, I am close to wishing that I just took it in and spent the money.[/quote]

Yea but look at all the fun you'd be missin out on....
Neil is offline  
Old 04-28-2009, 08:12 AM
  #18  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Silver Shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 65
Yes. I must admit that changing the clutch on my own in a small garage with jack stands is not as fun as I imagined. I pray that I will be able to bust out the top tranny bolt otherwise I will button everything up and take it to Honda, admit defeat, and let them do it.
Silver Shadow is offline  
Old 04-29-2009, 10:57 AM
  #19  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Silver Shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 65
Got the top bolts off. I highly recommend using a 1/2 inch drive setup. Too much torque is taken away when using the 3/8 drive rachet setup. Tranny coming after work today. Dang this project is a bitch!
Silver Shadow is offline  
Old 04-29-2009, 11:12 AM
  #20  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 713
Just wanted to chime in with some encouragement. Not too many people are willing to dive into something like that without some background under the hood. When this is all said and done, you'll have some memories you can be proud of. At the very least, you'll have learned something!

You GO, girl.
Swingle1 is offline  
Old 04-30-2009, 07:56 AM
  #21  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Silver Shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 65
Got the tranny off last night. Whew! You know that transmission is not that heavy at all. This could be a one man job.
Silver Shadow is offline  
Old 04-30-2009, 09:38 AM
  #22  
Senior Member
 
TheCarGuy2021's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Manhattan Beach, CA
Posts: 1,327
Keep it up!
TheCarGuy2021 is offline  
Old 04-30-2009, 09:45 AM
  #23  
Village Pyro
 
TheSoundMan21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 3,134
Originally Posted by TheCarGuy2021 View Post
Keep it up!
+1
TheSoundMan21 is offline  
Old 05-02-2009, 09:06 AM
  #24  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Silver Shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 65
Throw Out Bearing Installation

I am about to take some pictures then remove the old PP, T/O Bearing and Flywheel and then replace them all. But before I do, I noticed that inside the T/O Bearing at the place where the shift fork slides into are two sloped ends on the opposite of each other on the bearing. Where do those ends go in relation to the fork? (Hmmm. Maybe I should take a picture of what I am talking about...)
Silver Shadow is offline  
Old 05-03-2009, 05:26 AM
  #25  
normal aspiration
 
bbcricketta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: deep south georgia--tangie town
Posts: 3,518
Originally Posted by TheSoundMan21 View Post
Girls got some guts dang... I might have to suck it up in about another 50,000 miles and do this myself. Shoot if I was nearby Id help.
Originally Posted by Swingle1 View Post
Just wanted to chime in with some encouragement. Not too many people are willing to dive into something like that without some background under the hood. When this is all said and done, you'll have some memories you can be proud of. At the very least, you'll have learned something!

You GO, girl.
now, you guys stop staring at the headlights in Silver Shadow's avatar. SS is a hard-tail; his woman is the possessor of those dagmars. he is a brave man to attempt to do the clutch, and a proud one to display his very fine consort.


see the resemblance?


bb
bbcricketta is offline  
Old 05-03-2009, 07:39 AM
  #26  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 349
Silver Shadow,

I'm in North Hollywood. If you need an extra set of hands, maybe I can come by.

Sorry I didn't see this thread sooner.

Where you at?

Mark
Marrk is offline  
Old 05-03-2009, 09:29 AM
  #27  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Silver Shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 65
Wiring

I am about to remove and install the PP, disk, bearing, and flywheel. I stopped by the Honda dealership and they recommend not using much hi-temp grease, if any, on the reinstallation. So I will use just a bit on the splines and the T/O bearing. Also, now that I have the tranny off I am concerned about putting all of those electrical connectors back together correctly. Maybe I should have tagged both ends of each plug before disconnecting. Wish me luck. If anyone has nice pictures of the wiring harness setup I would be most appreciative.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Clutch2.jpg
Views:	89
Size:	41.2 KB
ID:	1848  
Silver Shadow is offline  
Old 05-03-2009, 10:19 PM
  #28  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Silver Shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 65
Pressure Plate Fingers

Ok. I replaced the flywheel, PP, disk, and bearing. The impact wrench took off the flywheel no problem! I had to make a quick run to Sears to pick up a 12point 17mm socket though. I took some time to figure out the wiring harness and where each end plugs into each other on the transmission. Everything should be fine. Tomorrow I reinstall that transmission. Wish me luck. But before I go tonight I just wanted to ask you guys why the fingers on the old PP slant in while the fingers on the new plate don't. I would think the fingers on the old PP would slant out towards the direction of the transmission since that is the direction the TO bearing would pull them when the clutch is disengaged. What are your thoughts? How does everything look from the attached pictures?
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Old Clutch Setup.jpg
Views:	101
Size:	31.3 KB
ID:	1854   Click image for larger version

Name:	New Clutch Setup.jpg
Views:	89
Size:	50.2 KB
ID:	1855  
Silver Shadow is offline  
Old 05-05-2009, 07:28 AM
  #29  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Silver Shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 65
Transmission has been installed. I used a floor jack and two scissor jacks. It was actually pretty darn easy.
Silver Shadow is offline  
Old 05-05-2009, 08:34 AM
  #30  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 713
Sweet.

So whaddya think? If you had it to do over, would you do it, or take it to someone?
Swingle1 is offline  
Old 05-05-2009, 11:14 AM
  #31  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Silver Shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 65
I still have to reconnect the propellor shaft, reconnect the wiring around the tranny, the exhaust manifold, raise the subframe, and button up everthing in the engine bay. If the car starts and drives well then I will be very pleased with myself.

With that said, I would do this job again and would recommend to anyone with a solid intermediate level of backyard automotive experience to save themselves some cash and do it themselves too. This job takes about ten hours or so but I spread it out over three weeks so that the job was never too intense. (I know there are some of you out there that say the job takes less time, but I was slow and careful). The biggest issue for me was the fear in my head. The whole project is a management of fear.

I printed and read all of the DIY manuals floating around on this site and the other S2K forum along with the Honda repair manual. I have some suggestions which I will share with you all when the job is done and the car is operational. Please stay tuned to this thread. Also, I am available to answer any questions anyone may have about doing the clutch change themselves. Special thanks to the CarGuy and Philliam.

Last edited by Silver Shadow; 05-06-2009 at 11:12 AM. Reason: Corrected spelling of a word.
Silver Shadow is offline  
Old 05-05-2009, 11:38 AM
  #32  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 349
Good work, Silver.

I look forward to your version of a step-by-step.

Cheers.



Originally Posted by Silver Shadow View Post
I still have to reconnect the propellor shaft, reconnect the wiring around the tranny, the exhaust manifold, raise the subframe, and button up everthing in the engine bay. If the car starts and drives well then I will be very pleased with myself.

With that said, I would do this job again and would recommend to anyone with a solid intermittant level of backyard automotive experience to save themselves some cash and do it themselves too. This job takes about ten hours or so but I spread it out over three weeks so that the job was never too intense. (I know there are some of you out there that say the job takes less time, but I was slow and careful). The biggest issue for me was the fear in my head. The whole project is a management of fear.

I printed and read all of the DIY manuals floating around on this site and the other S2K forum along with the Honda repair manual. I have some suggestions which I will share with you all when the job is done and the car is operational. Please stay tuned to this thread. Also, I am available to answer any questions anyone may have about doing the clutch change themselves. Special thanks to the CarGuy and Philliam.
Marrk is offline  
Old 05-05-2009, 11:40 AM
  #33  
Village Pyro
 
TheSoundMan21's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 3,134
Nice. Only issue is my car cant be down for 3 weeks lol.
TheSoundMan21 is offline  
Old 05-05-2009, 09:51 PM
  #34  
Senior Member, Literally
 
philiam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: woodland hills, CA
Posts: 4,442
Taking your time is smart. Sin in haste, repent a leisure!
philiam is offline  
Old 05-05-2009, 09:56 PM
  #35  
Senior Member
 
TheCarGuy2021's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Manhattan Beach, CA
Posts: 1,327
Nice work!
TheCarGuy2021 is offline  
Old 05-06-2009, 08:18 PM
  #36  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Silver Shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 65
Torque Setting and Transmission Fluid Question

I am putting the last components back together and I have two specific questions. #1 The Honda repair manual states that the transmission fluid capacity at fluid change is 1.56 US quarts. This seems a bit too little to me. So how much trans fluid should I pump back into the tranny before I bring the car down? I already put in about 1.6 qts and it seems like more can go in. The Honda parts guy told me to buy three quarts of fluid, which I did. #2 At what torque level should the O2 sensors be tightened to on the exhuast manifold and cat.? Please let me know if you guys have a chance. Thanks.
Silver Shadow is offline  
Old 05-06-2009, 08:39 PM
  #37  
Senior Member, Literally
 
philiam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: woodland hills, CA
Posts: 4,442
Fill it to the opening for the filler plug.
philiam is offline  
Old 05-09-2009, 10:55 PM
  #38  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Silver Shadow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 65
Hey everyone! I finished up my clutch change this week and, man, the car drives great! As you know, I replaced the flywheel, disk, PP and TO bearing all with Honda replacement parts. Plus, I replaced the transmission fluid while I was at it. Shifting is like butter now and that infamous clutch buzz is gone... for now. I am putting together a write up as we speak and will post it on Monday. Guys, if you are on the fence about changing the clutch yourself, just do it! It wasn't that hard. The only negative thing I can think of is that now the car idles really low at times. Maybe the trottle cable got tweaked from when I lowered the engine cradle. It's no big deal at the moment. But any thoughts able my intermittent low idle would be appreciated. Look for the write up on Monday! Word.
Silver Shadow is offline  
Old 05-09-2009, 11:08 PM
  #39  
Senior Member, Literally
 
philiam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: woodland hills, CA
Posts: 4,442
Could be the lighter flywheel. Less mass to keep the crank spinning.
philiam is offline  
Old 05-09-2009, 11:46 PM
  #40  
Senior Member
 
TheCarGuy2021's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Manhattan Beach, CA
Posts: 1,327
Originally Posted by Silver Shadow View Post
Hey everyone! I finished up my clutch change this week and, man, the car drives great! As you know, I replaced the flywheel, disk, PP and TO bearing all with Honda replacement parts. Plus, I replaced the transmission fluid while I was at it. Shifting is like butter now and that infamous clutch buzz is gone... for now. I am putting together a write up as we speak and will post it on Monday. Guys, if you are on the fence about changing the clutch yourself, just do it! It wasn't that hard. The only negative thing I can think of is that now the car idles really low at times. Maybe the trottle cable got tweaked from when I lowered the engine cradle. It's no big deal at the moment. But any thoughts able my intermittent low idle would be appreciated. Look for the write up on Monday! Word.
As mentioned above, could be the flywheel. Could also be the ECU "relearning" since you unhooked the battery to change the clutch.

Either way, enjoy the new clutch.
TheCarGuy2021 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Clutch Change Procedure Question


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.