Please help, Engine doesn't rev over 3000 RPM

Old 07-07-2007, 03:54 PM
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Please help, Engine doesn't rev over 3000 RPM

Hi all, I am a new S2K owner, just got the car 5 days ago, I hate to introduce myself with a problem, but it just happened today.
the car was driving great and i was revving the engine just over 5500 and suddenly the the check engine light went on and felt like I run out off gas, the engine doesn't rev over 3000 rpm any more and feels like its hitting a rev-limiter or ignition cut off. luckily I was able to pull over to the side of the road and stopped the car. turned the engine off and on again. check engine light still on, but I can rev the engine back all way to red line. I drove the car again and if I try to rush the engine (5500 to 6500) the problem happens again, and engine stops reving over 3000. same; turning engine off and on would solve the problem temporarily.
the car still under factory warranty, but I coudn't get an appointment earlier than next week for repair..
can anybody help please ????? is it software problem or somthing wrong with the engine ? can I drive the car to work or I should avoid driving it ??
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Old 07-07-2007, 05:21 PM
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I would'nt drive the car till it was looked at, that sucks sorry to hear about that
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Old 07-07-2007, 05:54 PM
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yea dude best bet is to carry it to the dealer since its still under factory warranty and everything.Dont let the dealer give you crap most are really good but if you run into trouble best advice is just to go to another one. Sorry you haven the bad luck with you new car man but welcome to the site!!
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Old 07-07-2007, 06:33 PM
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Welcome Mzk ! It's nice to have you aboard but sorry your intro had to be with a prob.

You said you're a new owner of an S2k -is the car an 07 ?
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Old 07-07-2007, 06:38 PM
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It's 2005 with 22000 miles on it.
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Old 07-07-2007, 06:55 PM
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I would think just for safety reasons alone you wouldn't want to drive it till it's fixed. I mean, if you can't rev it over 3k what kind of accleration would you have? Each shift has to be abreviated. Not good.
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Old 07-08-2007, 02:51 AM
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tighten your gas cap...the reason the car won't rev over 3k is to prevent damage to the engine when there is a problem. The most common problem is a gas cap that is not tightened...turn it until it clicks 3 times...and if that doesn't solve the problem...you still have the dealer appointment.
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Old 08-24-2008, 01:45 PM
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check all your sensors. when i adjusted my valves i forgot 2 plug the crank shaft sensor in and i ran into the same problem. check your cam shaft and crank shaft sensors. if the engine gets an improper signal from one it will run on limp mode. if both of them go out it won't run at all because it won't have anything 2 signal the sparks.
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Old 08-24-2008, 02:06 PM
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The gas cap should not cause the rev limiter problem just the check engine light. I had the same problem with mine it was caused by some wiring I did with my supercharger.
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Old 08-24-2008, 02:57 PM
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Initial thread date'uv over a year ago guyz.
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Old 08-24-2008, 11:36 PM
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That's true, but I'm also wondering what ever happened with this? fatality's doing a good job looking through the posts, digging up unresolved questions that we want answers to...
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Old 08-25-2008, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Java Junky View Post
Initial thread date'uv over a year ago guyz.
thats ok that it is a year old. but look at it this way. someone else with the same problem could come along and see this thread and be like ok well that dosn't help read down see what i posted and be like awsome now i have someplace 2 start looking! the porpus of these fourms is to help eachother out threw experiance. some members arn't as mechaically incline and don't know how all the different sensers would affect how the engine runs and what happens when they malfunction.

yea maby my reply wasn't soon enough 2 help the OP out and he might have paid good money 2 get his car fixed but that dosn't mean i can't help someone in the future!

Originally Posted by Scooter View Post
That's true, but I'm also wondering what ever happened with this? fatality's doing a good job looking through the posts, digging up unresolved questions that we want answers to...
thanks scooter! and your welcome. i am new the the site and i am just trying my best 2 add 2 the experiance. i had an 07 si befor i traided in for my 03 s2k. and i'm slowy starting 2 modd it so as i progress i'll share with people my mistakes so they can learn from them and i'll share what worked well. because after all there are more than one way 2 do things.
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Old 08-26-2008, 05:41 AM
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I don't see what any of this has to do with mammals that live in the water.

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Old 08-26-2008, 05:51 AM
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It actually sounds like the v-tec solenoid is unplugged.
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Old 08-27-2008, 04:01 AM
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idk on my buddy's 2000 Si when his Vtec solenoid s*&t out on him it reved all the way 2 redline the cam just wouldn't change over. idk if ours is set up any different. but if it has any effect on the rpm being limited it would probably limit it at the cross over not at 3k. but i'll unplug it and find out what it dose and report back later.

Last edited by gomarlins3; 10-03-2010 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 08-27-2008, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by fatality122887 View Post
idk on my buddy's 2000 Si when his Vtec solenoid s*&t out on him it reved all the way 2 redline the cam just wouldn't change over. idk if ours is set up any different. but if it has any effect on the rpm being limited it would probably limit it at the cross over not at 3k. but i'll unplug it and find out what it dose and report back later.
Im pretty sure that is incorrect. IIRC, If you unplugg the cable going to the solenoid in an S2000, it will not go over 6000. His problem was it would go over 3000, so it could be a combination of problems.

Last edited by gomarlins3; 10-03-2010 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 02-10-2009, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by mzk784 View Post
Hi all, I am a new S2K owner, just got the car 5 days ago, I hate to introduce myself with a problem, but it just happened today.
the car was driving great and i was revving the engine just over 5500 and suddenly the the check engine light went on and felt like I run out off gas, the engine doesn't rev over 3000 rpm any more and feels like its hitting a rev-limiter or ignition cut off. luckily I was able to pull over to the side of the road and stopped the car. turned the engine off and on again. check engine light still on, but I can rev the engine back all way to red line. I drove the car again and if I try to rush the engine (5500 to 6500) the problem happens again, and engine stops reving over 3000. same; turning engine off and on would solve the problem temporarily.
the car still under factory warranty, but I coudn't get an appointment earlier than next week for repair..
can anybody help please ????? is it software problem or somthing wrong with the engine ? can I drive the car to work or I should avoid driving it ??

Did anyome ever get resolution? I am having this issue

Thanks!

Chip
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Old 02-10-2009, 01:13 PM
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Go to autozone and get the car scanned. Could be a bad plug, bad gas, lose gas cap.. etc..
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Old 02-14-2009, 09:39 AM
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My car had a similar problem, but it would only pull to about 8200 rpms. As it turned out, I had a bad coil pack...I'm not saying it's the problem, but I would either have them checked or put some heat in the gas tank. I got some bad gas and that's what killed a cylinder.
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Old 02-15-2009, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by MattYielding View Post
My car had a similar problem, but it would only pull to about 8200 rpms. As it turned out, I had a bad coil pack...I'm not saying it's the problem, but I would either have them checked or put some heat in the gas tank. I got some bad gas and that's what killed a cylinder.
I had 2 misfiring pistons from bent valves and my S only revved to about 5000... Now that it is fixed it gets it...

Originally Posted by bobby2002S2K View Post
I still cant get my foot off the floor and its been over a 2yrs now
Where are the bigger pictures...?
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Old 09-15-2010, 07:59 AM
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throttle possistioning sensor is wasted.
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Old 09-15-2010, 12:25 PM
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Is the engine up to temperature when you are trying to redline it. If not it won't go above about 6k.

Jonathan
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Old 09-15-2010, 12:56 PM
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Another case of old threads re-appearing.
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Old 09-15-2010, 02:21 PM
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I had a similar problem listed under "loss of power". I addressed several possible remedies. I replaced the "Fuel Pressure Regulator" located on top of the fuel rail. Make sure the vacuum line to the regulator is not pinched partially closed by the hood insulation. The fuel lines pass very close to the intake manifold, both supply and return, so I insulated the lines for several inches in that area. My problem seemed to be temperature related. Thats the reason for suspecting a vapor lock. But, the FPR was the only part easy to replace and had moving parts that could fail. I haven't had the problem since and I exercise the engine regularly.
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Old 09-15-2010, 02:34 PM
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Buy the way, my s2k is also a 2005 with 22,000 miles. I did not get an engine light and no codes were set.
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:15 AM
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Thumbs up bilmil

Originally Posted by bilmilharley View Post
I had a similar problem listed under "loss of power". I addressed several possible remedies. I replaced the "Fuel Pressure Regulator" located on top of the fuel rail. Make sure the vacuum line to the regulator is not pinched partially closed by the hood insulation. The fuel lines pass very close to the intake manifold, both supply and return, so I insulated the lines for several inches in that area. My problem seemed to be temperature related. Thats the reason for suspecting a vapor lock. But, the FPR was the only part easy to replace and had moving parts that could fail. I haven't had the problem since and I exercise the engine regularly.
Anyone following this thread will be pleased to know that the problem is fixed. after all the fuel and vaccum corrections i still had the problem. So my next step was to replace the coils, all four. Still had the problem.
Sooo, in desperation, i desconnected the battery, removed the drivers side interior kick panel to give me access to the ECM. Remember, i have never received the first code indicating the problem device. I disconnected all plugs into the ECM and wiggled all wires in the plugs. Reinstalled the plugs into the ECP, smacked the crap out the ECM (old electricians trick) hooked the battery back up to reboot the ECM and took it for a test drive. 3 hours later it was still prefect. I think the ECM had a currupted program or the negitive battery terminal was too loose.
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Old 05-14-2011, 06:42 PM
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Old 05-14-2011, 07:43 PM
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Old thread, but would like to add that my car had this same problem before I bought it. Dealership told me it was the PCM (powertrain control module), and we took it over to the Honda Dealership and they replaced it...for $771 dollars.
The check engine light was also on when they problem was occurring.

I haven't had any problems with the car since the new PCM was put in place. By the way, it's a MY01 with 64,000 on it.
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Old 08-21-2012, 05:30 PM
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I've had this problem for about 8 months. CEL p1607. Cold days + cold engine = limp mode 3000 rpm rev limit. It can be a pain waiting to warm up in limp mode then hoping it restarts fine. Sometimes it does, sometimes it won't. Recently it got worse, started giving me issues on 60F days instead of just 30F days...that's an issue since I love driving it on nice days.

Follow this researched advice:

Perform on a COLD ENGINE only!

1. Disconnect negative battery terminal.
2. Gain access to the ECM (ECU or PCM are other common names for the brain). It's located behind an interior kick panel at the driver's left leg. Take this plastic kick panel off.
3. Locate the ECM. It's the metal box with 3 large wire looms going into the bottom.
4. Unclip and pull all wire looms out of the ECM.
5. Blow air in the wire terminals (I used a small duster can). I'm sure the Nintendo method works great too.
6. Blow air into the ECM terminals. (careful not to tip the can upside down. this will create a freezing mist that could damage your ECM more).
7. Individually wiggle each wire in each loom. Inspect them as well. Anything burned, dusty, exposed wires, paperclips or wire jumps?
8. I also unplugged and wiggled the fuse box harness for safe measure. It's right there in your face anyway.
9. Mind as well wiggle all the other wires under the dash while you're in the luxurious footwell hotel. I didn't bother unclipping them all, and don't wiggle with force.
10. Lightly tap the ECM with a rubber mallet. I did it probably 15 times, lightly. Don't be an idiot and slam the thing, it's a computer. In theory this might free some type of corrosion that exists or maybe it calls upon the Car Gods? I don't know, but I did it anyways.
11. Plug all your wires back in under there. Double check this step three times.
12. Re-Connect negative battery terminal.

You aren't done yet. You now need to "recalibrate" your ECM. Some call this a reset or resetting your ECM.

13. Start your car and immediately get to 3000 rpms and leave it there until you're engine's temp gauge reaches 3 full bars. Took me maybe 3-4 minutes. Try to keep it exactly at 3000 rpms, I had mine at 3100-3200 for about few and it's ok. Just let off or increase very lightly to get there. But what if you get the fuel cut at 3000 rpms again??? Well I didn't. But if you do I'd recommend shutting it off and looking for a new solution. Maybe re-do the previous steps before you buy a new ECM.

14. Once you are up to operating temp, slowly let your foot off the gas and let the engine come down to idle. RPMs might fluctuate slightly for a minute as the ECM relearns and adjusts. You need to keep the car running at least until you hear the cooling fans kick on.

15. I let my car idle for 5-7 minutes. Some might recommend longer as I know when I had my 3000gt an ECM reset required a 20 minute idle.

16. I shut it off. Waited about an hour and went for a drive. Honestly, I could tell immediately at start up that something was better. I could hear it burning the fuel better than before, even when it started ok before.

17. Cross your fingers and wait until the next cold morning start up.

Thanks to everyone who has had some info on this issue. I hope these steps save some people from pulling out their hair, buying new ECMs, or replacing random parts in desperation.

Last edited by awild; 08-21-2012 at 09:39 PM.
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Old 08-25-2012, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by mzk784 View Post
Hi all, I am a new S2K owner, just got the car 5 days ago, I hate to introduce myself with a problem, but it just happened today.
the car was driving great and i was revving the engine just over 5500 and suddenly the the check engine light went on and felt like I run out off gas, the engine doesn't rev over 3000 rpm any more and feels like its hitting a rev-limiter or ignition cut off. luckily I was able to pull over to the side of the road and stopped the car. turned the engine off and on again. check engine light still on, but I can rev the engine back all way to red line. I drove the car again and if I try to rush the engine (5500 to 6500) the problem happens again, and engine stops reving over 3000. same; turning engine off and on would solve the problem temporarily.
the car still under factory warranty, but I coudn't get an appointment earlier than next week for repair..
can anybody help please ????? is it software problem or somthing wrong with the engine ? can I drive the car to work or I should avoid driving it ??

First thing is to check the level of oil, add if its low, until the top line,

Don't rev your car higher than 3000rpm anyway until its seen by the service.... sorry to hear the situation

Check the oil level at least once in 2weeks
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