CEL LOW COMPRESSION

Old 03-06-2012, 07:50 PM
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CEL LOW COMPRESSION

I have a 2006 with 92k. For the past year I have had on and off CEL with the #3 misfire code. Fuel injector cleaner would keep the code away temporarily however now it is on steady. Last week it flashed when at idle and would go steady with minimal rpm additon. I took it to a mech that specializes in Hondas and asked him to 1) check my valves and 2) check my compression. Well he started with a compression check and never looked at my valves. I have the following numbers : 240/150/165/240. He did a wet test with oil and said my piston rings might be bad and also said the #2 is leaking into the #3 and the #3 leaks into the manifold. His diagnosis is bad piston rings or leaking head gasket. I think it may be some bad, bent or out of adjustment valves. I guess I will take it back to him to complete the test, starting with the valves before touching the head. Anyone have any advice? Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:07 PM
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Just got my car back from the mechanic and it runs great, idles smooth, and no more CEL. Valves were adjusted with the largest corrections on the exhaust side of th #2 and #3.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:04 PM
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Great news!
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:09 PM
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! es bueno !
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:08 AM
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Glad to hear it was an easy fix!
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Old 03-23-2012, 06:19 AM
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Follow up: it has been about 3 weeks since my valve adjustment and zero lights and the car runs excellent. If you ever get a CEL with a VSA light and caution light that come on at idle, and your codes are misfire, I would start with a valve adjustment. The maint schedual actually calls for a valve adjustment arount 90K miles. The reason the VSA comes on at idle is because the computer senses a slip when it experiences a misfire (my opinion).
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Old 03-23-2012, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by bueno View Post
Follow up: it has been about 3 weeks since my valve adjustment and zero lights and the car runs excellent. If you ever get a CEL with a VSA light and caution light that come on at idle, and your codes are misfire, I would start with a valve adjustment. The maint schedual actually calls for a valve adjustment arount 90K miles. The reason the VSA comes on at idle is because the computer senses a slip when it experiences a misfire (my opinion).
I'll second that- I was throwing random misfire in all cylinders (P1399, P0300, 0301, 0302, 0303, 0304) This would happen more often on cold starts which convinced me it was valve clearances. Adjusted 3K again and no problems since

With a requirement at 90K, this is def the first thing that should be done if you are throwing those codes.
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Old 03-31-2012, 03:24 PM
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How much does it generaly cost to get your valves adjusted or checked? I just overreved the engine for the first time last night.. was trying to downshift from 5th to 4th for a pass @ 72mph but ended up getting into 2nd.. it didn't overrev too hardcore and I don't hear or feel any difference tho but getting my valves checked wouldn't be a bad idea.
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Old 04-01-2012, 05:39 AM
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Avoid the dealer if at all possible. Not knowing any shops in San Antonio, seek out a recommendation on the Central Texas forums on S2KI. The key is making sure the adjustment is done on a cold engine for accuracy.
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by JDMricist View Post
How much does it generaly cost to get your valves adjusted or checked? I just overreved the engine for the first time last night.. was trying to downshift from 5th to 4th for a pass @ 72mph but ended up getting into 2nd.. it didn't overrev too hardcore and I don't hear or feel any difference tho but getting my valves checked wouldn't be a bad idea.
don't know how much $$$ to check or adjust. shouldn't be big bucks.

valve adjustment, while critical, and deserving of minute attention, is not rocket surgery. i think 50,000 is a good place to adjust your valves. it is like changing oil: it can never hurt.

get your retainers checked. if you have an AP1 you might want to have 'em replaced. the reason for this is that the AP1 retainers have a tendency to crack upon experiencing a mechanical over-rev.

make sure it is your last over-rev. could be fatal.

i grew up with volkswagens and to make 'em last you changed the oil and adjusted the valves every 3,000. saved a lotta bucks learning to do it myself with a book in one hand and a wrench in the other. been a long way since then.

beeb

Last edited by bbcricketta; 04-01-2012 at 07:51 AM. Reason: adjusted my tractor valves not long ago. book calls for the motor to be hot, believe it or not.
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