Full valve job advice due to mechanical over rev

Old 10-12-2011, 08:07 PM
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Full valve job advice due to mechanical over rev

Hey guys. I'm looking at doing a full valve job myself and would appreciate any advice from the community.

It's been a long time coming so I'll give you a little history. I've got a 2004 S2000 with the F22C. I've had it since new. It's got around 70k on it now. I'm pretty sure I've hit the money shift at least once (if not more) in the past. A couple of years ago I started getting all the misfire codes. I originally thought it was the MAP sensor issue. I did the MAP whack, cleaned the passages (which helped the idle), added the zip tie, even installed a new MAP sensor with the zip tie all to no avail. After that I started reading all the pages about mechanical over revs from a missed shift and the related cracked retainers, bent valves, etc.

Last year in an attempt to pass inspection I finally did a compression test. Cylinders 1, 2, and 4 were all around 240 psi. Cylinder 3, however, was only at 190 psi. It was also full of black deposits. I performed a valve adjustment at that time. Unfortunately I did not write down all the measurements. I do remember that just about everything was tight. Some were at no clearance. I tried looking to see if any of the retainers were cracked but did not understand as much at the time what to look for exactly. (I know most the cracked retainers have been on the F20's but I'm still suspect of it since everything was so tight.) After that all the codes cleared and have not returned. The car has ran much better as well. Since I'm still concerned about dropping a valve I haven't gone over 4k rpm in the last couple of years (which has sucked by the way).

So now I've decided to fix it for sure. First I'm planning on doing a leak down test just in case that tells me anything new. I figure if I'm going to pull it apart I might as well go ahead and replace everything. I'm planning on pulling the head and installing new valves (intake and exhaust), guides, seals, keepers, springs, retainers, and seats. I've read that it's hard to beat OEM for the valves. Any reason to go oversize? I've read that you can actually lose airflow in the VTEC engines with oversized valves. I was thinking of going with Supertech guides.

As far as springs I haven't decided. I definitely do want to go aftermarket. There's Supertech, Ferrea, Skunk2, Spoon, Brian Crower, ScienceofSpeed, InlinePro, and more I'm sure. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. What about dual springs? What about titanium retainers?

What about gaskets? I assume I'll need a cylinder head gasket, an intake gasket, and an exhaust gasket. I read that Honda has a full kit but I haven't seen it anywhere. What about the Hondata heatshield gasket?

My other big question is about what to do with the head itself. I guess I need to send it out to a shop to check if it's warped and needs resurfacing. I've read that a basic three-angle valve job is the best bet. Any thoughts? I've also read that porting and polishing an S2000 head doesn't get you much. Should I send the whole thing off and get them to remove and install everything? Does anyone know any good shops in the Dallas area? I've found these shops online but don't know much about them: City Motor Supply in Dallas, ENDYN in Fort Worth, Ballade Sports in Garden Grove, Speed-O-Motive in West Covina, HP Engines in Norwood, Performance Porting in Loveland, Port Flow Design in Harbor City, and CC Cylinder Heads.

Should I get new head bolts? I know the service manual gives bolt diameters to check for stretch. I think the ARP kit is $150. Necessary?

I found a couple of good write ups that may be useful to others as well. One from modified and the other from Honda Tuning.

http://www.modified.com/projectcars/...000/index.html

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...ild/index.html

I'd appreciate any help you guys can offer. I know this is a lot of info and a lot of questions but I've been mulling this over for a while. I know there's lots of posts on this topic (because I've read all I can find) but I haven't seen any that discuss everything done to fix it. I've got the service manual and would rather buy any tools needed over paying someone else to do it. I just want to know what I need before hand. I'd like to have all parts ready to go before I rip it apart. Thanks again.
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Old 10-13-2011, 05:45 AM
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Honestly sounds like a huge waste of time and money to me. Good luck
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Old 10-13-2011, 06:16 AM
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Why wouldn't you just go all OEM again. There was nothing wrong with the original design. that is just my 2 cents though.
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Old 10-13-2011, 06:17 AM
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s2000isu, Any particular reason? Do you not think there is valve damage?

Last edited by agthad; 10-13-2011 at 06:19 AM.
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Old 10-13-2011, 06:19 AM
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crossracing70, I've read that aftermarket springs are stronger than OEM so they resist valve float better.

Last edited by agthad; 10-13-2011 at 06:36 AM.
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Old 10-15-2011, 11:44 AM
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Has anyone had this head port and polished? Notice a difference?
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Old 10-18-2011, 07:23 AM
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bump. Anyone else have any suggestions?
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Old 10-18-2011, 09:45 AM
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If you are going to do this it is your choice. If you have bad compression it could be bent valves creating blow-by which would be the reason to redo the head. I would take the head off and check the bore of each cylinder and if the cylinders do not look scoured I would continue with getting the head done. Just remember to do a compression test before and after the repair. Aftermarket parts a generally stronger and usually cheaper or the same price as factory. I would go aftermarket.
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Old 10-18-2011, 01:18 PM
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Thanks littlebuff
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Old 12-11-2011, 06:42 AM
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I rechecked compression and did a leak down test yesterday. Compression came out the same as before and the leak down showed expected results.

Cylinder...........Compression (psi).........Leak Down (%)
....1.....................240..................... 10
....2.....................240..................... 20
....3.....................190..................... 45
....4.....................240..................... 5

The leak down in 3 sounded to be both in the intake and exhaust.

I've purchased all Supertech components for the rebuild (valves, guides, seals, springs, spring seats, retainers, keepers). I'm taking the head into Watt's Engine Shop next week. I can't wait to get this baby back to how she should be. I've got the Honda gasket kit, crush washers, fluids, spark plugs, K&N air filter, everything I could imagine I'll need to get back up and running. I'll let you know how it goes. I'll take plenty of pics.
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Old 12-12-2011, 07:30 PM
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supertech is very good quality, I am building an H23 head with it right now. The Viton exhaust seals are the best.

Make sure you have that head machined and tanked.
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Old 12-13-2011, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by berlinas2k2 View Post
supertech is very good quality, I am building an H23 head with it right now. The Viton exhaust seals are the best.

Make sure you have that head machined and tanked.
I'm taking the head to Watt's to be machined. What do you mean by tanked?
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Old 12-13-2011, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by berlinas2k2 View Post
supertech is very good quality, I am building an H23 head with it right now. The Viton exhaust seals are the best.

Make sure you have that head machined and tanked.
Are you talking about a hot tank to clean it?
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