Driveline Vibration

Old 01-04-2011, 08:21 PM
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Driveline Vibration

Ok so I'm sure everyone is sick of this question by now but I figured I'd throw it out there anyway.

I have a 01 with 101k on the clock. I am getting that oh so wonderful driveline vibration at 30+ mph. It also seems to get worse with increased throttle response or increased engine load. I already know about the TSB about the inner CV joints and in all honesty have yet to do that... or just change the axles. But I'm a little uneasy about trying this.

See the twist here is, I'm already on my second Diff! My first factory one showed the same signs of this vibration and I originally chalked it up to aftermarket wheels and tires. When I bought the car there was 18's on it, with no hubcentric rings. Anyway long story short I'm driving along one day and boom... car is acting like its in neutal...minus the grinding sound in the diff. I pulled it out and seprated it to find a mess. The ring gear had teeth sheared off it and so did the pinon. I also found the lock tabs for the side bearing pre-load ajusters snapped off. So I'm thinking that those lock pins snapped and caused the pre-load ajusters to back off over time. Thus causing the carrier to shake around and chew up the gears.

So what should I do? Can this inboard CV joint problem really cause all this diff damage if left untreated? My S2 Is stock accept for the AEM V2 intake...thats it.
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:39 PM
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The inner CV joint issue shouldn't cause the diff to blow. It will make the car shake but I have not heard of anyone that has blown the diff because of it. Are you the original owner? If not did the previous owner maybe abuse the car and the diff? You can swap the inner cups and see if that helps the problem and if you do it yourself it won't cost you anything but time.

Kevin
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:54 PM
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I think that's going to be the next step. Only for cost reasons I'll prob end up doing the whole CV shaft. The inner CV cups sell for 330.00 a piece and I still need to buy the boot kits, ha.

I am the second owner and freely admit I'm not nice to this car. What concerns me is this is exactly how it felt the first time. Since the diff swap (with a junkyard 40k AP1 diff from LKQ) It went from feeling normal again, to vibration again to the point of getting approx 10K miles out of my new Bridgestone tires until bald. Believe me when I say that's no whole shots or burn outs. Now I have a cheaper set of new Hankook Ventus V4 ES tires on the rear and it seemed to lessen the vibration.

A few other things I'm personally questioning. I have a 225/45R17 tire and rim on it now. Nothing special, just something that works. I also need to make camber ajustments in the rear. I know I'm reaching here, but rather than go on a part replacing nightmare I would love to hear from everyone who has tried stuff what worked and what didn't. Thanks




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Old 01-04-2011, 09:02 PM
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Just on a funny side note too this car is driven daily. Through Chicago summers and winters. Besides this driveline prob and the stupid owner (me ) who put Denso's instead of NGK's in it causing all my wonderful P0300 codes its been one hell of a car!
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Old 01-05-2011, 01:57 AM
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Kind of bad luck...
If U replace plugs again, try these : BKR7EIX-11PS
Why ? Cause they are Irridium, 100% compliant with OEM ones, plug and play, cheap, tested and approved. (more regular idle and tiny less gaz consumption)
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Old 01-05-2011, 03:07 AM
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i never thought the plugs made that big of a deal im still rocking oem (from honda, not my first set) plugs
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Old 01-05-2011, 05:38 AM
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You can swap the inner cups from side to side without buying new ones.

Here is a DIY for doing it http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=241367.

Basically what happens is the foward side of the cups get ptted and that is what causes ther vibration swapping them reverses them and should fix the problem.

Kevin
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Old 01-05-2011, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by mlc View Post
You can swap the inner cups from side to side without buying new ones.

Here is a DIY for doing it http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=241367.

Basically what happens is the foward side of the cups get ptted and that is what causes ther vibration swapping them reverses them and should fix the problem.

Kevin
Nice idea to try for sure. Now I just need the down time and garage, ha. worth a try though.
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Old 01-05-2011, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by traxman199 View Post
Nice idea to try for sure. Now I just need the down time and garage, ha. worth a try though.
and after doing that, don't forget you'll have the same vibration when you'll go backwards
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:02 PM
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vibration at low speeds, esp. 40mph

I've read a lot about this CV joint wear issue that causes vibration- but can someone confirm if it would apply to my 2004 AP2 ? or is it just AP1 cars ?

thanks,
GT
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by toffyapple View Post
I've read a lot about this CV joint wear issue that causes vibration- but can someone confirm if it would apply to my 2004 AP2 ? or is it just AP1 cars ?

thanks,
GT
I have swapped and seen it on a MY05. So yes it is an AP2 issue as well.

Kevin
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Old 03-02-2012, 03:42 PM
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Let me tell you how it will be.

Check the driveshaft, and the CV's.

'N if they break before you try.

The price of it, will make you cry.


Traxxxxxxxmannnnnn !!!!!!!

(insert cool Harrison solo here)
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Old 03-02-2012, 03:49 PM
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You can swap the inner cups from side to side without buying new ones.
can't you just swap the axle shafts side to side, vs. acutually having to swap the cups? Am I missing something ?
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Old 03-02-2012, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jagg View Post
can't you just swap the axle shafts side to side, vs. acutually having to swap the cups? Am I missing something ?
The axles are different lengths and can NOT be swapped. Actually if you could do it, it wouldn't help the problem. The bearings inside the end of the axle, look at #5 here http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...EAR+DRIVESHAFT there are three of them are the problem. When you take off, for lack of a better term, they "smash" into the cup. Well after several years of that the cup gets pitted and the bearings don't roll like they should which causes the vibration. When you swap the cups it puts the "good" side of the cup against the bearing when you are going forward, which is obviously the side that gets all of the abuse. The bearings roll smoothly again inside the cup and no more vibration.


I hope all of that made SOME sense.

Kevin

Last edited by mlc; 03-02-2012 at 07:25 PM.
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Old 03-03-2012, 06:39 AM
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it did.
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Old 03-03-2012, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mlc View Post
You can swap the inner cups from side to side without buying new ones.

Here is a DIY for doing it http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=241367.

Basically what happens is the foward side of the cups get ptted and that is what causes ther vibration swapping them reverses them and should fix the problem.

Kevin
- how many hours are we talking about for swapping these over, all in, ready to roll again -I will have to get my local (basingstoke, uk) garage to do it. is it straightforward job to do ?

thanks
toffy
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Old 04-20-2012, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by toffyapple View Post
- how many hours are we talking about for swapping these over, all in, ready to roll again -I will have to get my local (basingstoke, uk) garage to do it. is it straightforward job to do ?

thanks
toffy
I just did the swap tonight with three hours at a very slow pace. If you don't pull the driveshafts it helps to have a buddy to pull the hub out during the re-install. The wiggling started when I got my UK alignment last week. I guess the additional camber caused the joints to sit slightly out of the grooves they had worn. Good luck if you haven't solved it already.
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:17 PM
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thanks!

Originally Posted by traxman199 View Post
Nice idea to try for sure. Now I just need the down time and garage, ha. worth a try though.
Guess i have a project for the weekend!
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