HELP! my car wont go in gear

Old 08-07-2010, 07:21 PM
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HELP! my car wont go in gear

alright guys, please be patient....here is the deal, maybe a little over a week ago i posted something about my clutch possibly going out...im wondering if it is GONE.
so here is the gist....
i have a MY00 and i noticed that recently, in a 2 day span, i have been having slightly more trouble than usual putting the car into reverse and even first...
then today, literally after driving normal all day yesterday with no problems, my clutch feels "soft"?
and so im like ok screw work, i need to get home....
later i drive my car with my girl to show her what i pressume a clutch going out would act like, not expecting the problem to be exponentially worse...
so anyways, after having multiple attempts of getting the car into gear, i realized the car had to have the ignition keyless to get into any gear, whereupon it did so with somewhat restriction, but only for reverse.
also the clutch engages at literally the floor level...soooo i was doing reading on the master and slave cylinders and some posts on leaks from them etc...but im kinda lost since most of what i was reading were speculation

so my symptoms are...
low contact point on the clutch
trouble going into gear/will not go into gear when the car is started
when i did get the car going i could shift fine, but as mentioned contact is at the floor..

firstly i know my clutch pedal is on correctly...going from there what is up?
or is this simply an issue of the clutch needing replaced in a major way?
ive started to assume that is it, contacted a honda dealership for a quote on fluid changes and clutch replacement but the service dept was closed. would i be better off ordering the clutch and having them install? p.s. i also live near a cottman transmission..the only issue with the ordering of a clutch is that my s2000 is my DD..
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Old 08-07-2010, 08:57 PM
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WB check your fluid level in the clutch master cylinder first. For some reason the slave cylinders are known to go bad, that would be the next thing to check.
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Old 08-07-2010, 10:15 PM
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ok, so i checked the cylinder and it was not wet, i also checked the fluid level, and though at worse it could be a little low, it is still in the high/low range, there was fluid when i removed the lid....i have read on another forum where someone suspected the clutch master cylinder was going out and they said DO NOT MIX DOT3 AND DOT4, im not sure what is in it...so if that is true, how can i basically drain it? also some people mentioned air in the lines as an issue for the forums i saw, what could be a fix for that? thanks for the help and reply
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Old 08-07-2010, 10:55 PM
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http://forums.s2kca.com/showthread.php?t=12154

i found this DIY for bleeding the system on S2KCA, and had questions about particular things. i noticed some of our users are on the posts or corresponding posts for this issue so im hoping for help..this seems to be the problem, either air in the system or the clutch cylinder needs replaced...but i figure it might be more wise to drain the fluid and replace the fluid beforehand....so my particular questions...

if i cant mix the DOT3/4, but dont know what is in it, how can i do this safely? because the DIY mentions there must be DOT3/4 in the resevoir at all times so air does not get in the lines....

also, when trying to remove what crud there is in the resevoir, he mentions using "Something to suck out the old fluid from the reservoir. I used a big syringe with a little tubing on the end" what syringe is this referring to? i get that is a general question but i wanna make sure i dont F something up so im trying to find what he used...thanks guys




edit: in addition
it does make sense that my problem exists either in the cylinder itself or air in the lines since the clutch pressure is gone and the car did not slip in gear....so now, my only crossroads are in the fluids mixing for right now....so one question, if mixing the fluids is bad, is it bad if it is used for driving? or just bad at all...cuz i can basically try to bleed out all of what is in there, ya i would have to use a lot of DOT 3/4 but it would inevitably be all of one at the end...?

P.P.S aside from mixing dot3/4 i did see on a forum about bleeding brake and clutch that ATE blue is a good fluid, because well....its blue. so i can see where the transition ends and begins. but once again, if it is hazardous to mix then i dont want to tamper.. :/

Last edited by whitebrad25; 08-07-2010 at 11:59 PM. Reason: so not to repost
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Old 08-08-2010, 12:06 AM
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oh my lanta im going crazy.....so now i have found from several google sources, i hate google, that it is in fact safe to mix dot 3/4 but not dot5, which does not apply for me....so im pretty sure that tomorrow im gunna bleed the clutch master cylinder with ATE blue...and prayyy that this inconvienience is eliminated....ill be following the DIY i posted to the T so i might have little nit pick questions, I.E. the syringe. still wondering btw..ill make sure to let you guys know what happens. but please feel free to chime in if the DIY has anything you might want to add or touch up. thanks
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Old 08-08-2010, 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by whitebrad25 View Post
if i cant mix the DOT3/4, but dont know what is in it, how can i do this safely?
The sources I found say it's OK to mix DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluid, but, DOT 5 fluid should not be mixed with other fluids.

Originally Posted by whitebrad25 View Post
also, when trying to remove what crud there is in the resevoir, he mentions using "Something to suck out the old fluid from the reservoir. I used a big syringe with a little tubing on the end" what syringe is this referring to? i get that is a general question but i wanna make sure i dont F something up so im trying to find what he used...
Go to the cooking section of your local big box, look at a 'Flavor Injector' (big syringe) or a simple 'Turkey Baster' (tapered plastic tube with rubber squeeze ball).
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Old 08-08-2010, 09:53 AM
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Go to the cooking section of your local big box, look at a 'Flavor Injector' (big syringe) or a simple 'Turkey Baster' (tapered plastic tube with rubber squeeze ball).
ya i figured it was general...and thats exactly what im gunna get.
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Old 08-08-2010, 01:31 PM
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ok, went and got the supplies needed, ill be working on that when my friend comes back from work and ill post back on the status
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Old 08-08-2010, 04:03 PM
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Good luck young man but me thinks you need a slave cylinder.
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Old 08-08-2010, 05:18 PM
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well me thinks you might be right.
here is the deal...im unsure of how many times to bleed the screw and repeat but i did this process until the fluid was clear. that being said, the clutch pedal still feels soft, but the resevoir was not leaking, after a brief 2-3 minute drive the clutch felt better, but the reason i think i might need a new slave cylinder is because the fluid even when the pedal was engaging at the floor was not empty. that being said, it does not appear there is a leak but like i said the pedal still has a little play in it. i had my gf help instead but she says she was positive the pedal was to the floor and held up as high as possible everytime...? new cylinder? also having never done this im just not sure what to expect but if it comes to needing a new cylinder i know they go for like $80 around the forum but would it be better to take it to the dealership/shop for the removal/install? thanks
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Old 08-08-2010, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by whitebrad25 View Post
but the reason i think i might need a new slave cylinder is because the fluid even when the pedal was engaging at the floor was not empty
I'm not positive what you are saying here, but, if you are saying what I think you are saying, this would be normal and not an indication of needing a new slave cylinder.
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Old 08-08-2010, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by TTMartin View Post
I'm not positive what you are saying here, but, if you are saying what I think you are saying, this would be normal and not an indication of needing a new slave cylinder.
well what i was trying to explain is that there isnt a leak because the resevoir had fluid in it. and that even when the clutch pedal had a contact point basically at the floor there was still fluid in the resevoir and the clutch was soft feeling still. sorry
but i think i got it figured out...? im gunna go drive more and figure out how it feels after a bit of stop and go.
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Old 08-08-2010, 07:25 PM
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When you pump the pedal to bleed the brakes, does the pedal feel firm until you open the bleed valve?
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Old 08-08-2010, 07:38 PM
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im bleeding the clutch but the clutch doesnt feel firm no
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Old 08-08-2010, 09:17 PM
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Sorry, I meant clutch. At my age you get confused. What I meant was does the pedal firm up after you pump it? When you open the bleeder valve are you sure all the air is out?
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Old 08-08-2010, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by philiam View Post
Sorry, I meant clutch. At my age you get confused. What I meant was does the pedal firm up after you pump it? When you open the bleeder valve are you sure all the air is out?
welllll, i was under the car and had my girlfriend pump the clutch during the process, all of the fluid is out and what is in is the new fluid for sure....but the clutch pedal does have some play in the upper couple of inches.
so im positive all if the fluid has been switched, and im sure that we had fluid in the resevoir at all times..

edit
as for the pumps that are 2-3 inches yes the clutch pedal does firm up but for some reason there is still a little play in the clutch pedal, i.e. a lower engagement point

Last edited by whitebrad25; 08-08-2010 at 11:24 PM.
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Old 08-08-2010, 11:21 PM
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UPDATE
pedal has a little more play than what was usual.
no leaking from the slave cylinder.
master cylinder still has fluid...
the car now shifts and goes into every gear including reverse like butter....feels too smooth lol...but nice...still the clutch pedal is driving me crazy because the clutch feels soft?

so why is my pedal still "spongy?"
from looking around and trying to gather what info i can from similar issues i havent gathered much info. . . .im pretty positive that the clutch pedal does not need adjusted because i drove the car before this issue and the clutch felt perfect with a quick engagement...and now im noticing a few inches in the clutch of play that were not there before..

Last edited by whitebrad25; 08-09-2010 at 12:01 AM.
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Old 08-09-2010, 12:24 AM
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Some play in the pedal is normal. That can be adjusted but if the shifting is fine it's nothing to worry about.
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Old 08-09-2010, 03:47 AM
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Originally Posted by whitebrad25 View Post
so why is my pedal still "spongy?"
from looking around and trying to gather what info i can from similar issues i havent gathered much info. . . .im pretty positive that the clutch pedal does not need adjusted because i drove the car before this issue and the clutch felt perfect with a quick engagement...and now im noticing a few inches in the clutch of play that were not there before..

Drive it for a while. With the new fluid your seals will start to swell back up. It may get better, or it may start to leak. At, this point just keep an eye on it.
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Old 08-09-2010, 07:25 AM
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Check out the link, I'm not saying switch to earlier year slave cylinder. I want you to see the plunger in the end of the cylinder. Inside the cylinder is a plunger that has a seal on it. If the seal inside is worn out there's no way it's going to repair itself. If in fact the slave cylinder is bad, the culprit is fluid getting past the seal on the inside.

http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=270439
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Old 08-09-2010, 08:09 AM
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if you've got play in the first few inches your clutch master cylinder is going out... 100%

this happened to me and to TSM as well. there is a procedure for properly adjusting the clutch and that can also cause the car not to go into gear, if the clutch is adjusted incorrectly, the pressure plate might not be releasing all the way and is still spinning the clutch disc (and thus, the input shaft) so it would be like trying to put the car in gear without using the clutch whatsoever.
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Old 08-09-2010, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by leahysailor View Post
Check out the link, I'm not saying switch to earlier year slave cylinder. I want you to see the plunger in the end of the cylinder. Inside the cylinder is a plunger that has a seal on it. If the seal inside is worn out there's no way it's going to repair itself. If in fact the slave cylinder is bad, the culprit is fluid getting past the seal on the inside.

http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=270439
ya i saw this link earlier. . .

turbo6, well that would seem likely, and yes i watched a video aboout adjusting self adjusting clutches so im not sure i want to do that. (im aware that wasnt your suggestion) but my main issue was that there was no play before, and the nut did not loosen itself so i shouldnt adjust....now im kinda just sittin here goin "well is it the slave or the master?!" ...so im gunna do what TT said and drive it a little bit and watch it..but it is uncomfortable...i might order the master and take it to a shop sheesh
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Old 08-09-2010, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by whitebrad25 View Post
...so im gunna do what TT said and drive it a little bit and watch it..but it is uncomfortable...i might order the master and take it to a shop sheesh
Just realize you can drive a car without a clutch. Up shifting is easy, you just come off the gas as you shift, down shifting takes a little more finess, you shift out of gear into neutral, then with the slightest pressure on the shifter, you slowly bring the RPMs up to match the transmission speed and it will slip into gear.

Not something you want to do everyday, but, you wont be stranded out on the road. I was lucky enough to learn how to do this driving fire trucks (they've got to get there clutch or not). I had the throwout bearing go out in my MG (dropped into two pieces at the bottom of the clutch housing), and drove it back to Ft. Sam Houston during rush hour traffic.

The worse part about it is that you would have to start the car in 1st gear, I'm not sure where the clutch sensor is on the S2000, if it's on the pedal it would be do able, if it's at the clutch itself, it wouldn't work.

Again, not something you want to do all the time, but, i could be better than going out and spending money that you may or may not need to.
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Old 08-09-2010, 10:04 AM
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according to the navistar (international) dealer that my grandpa bought his flatbed wrecker from, lots of big trucks like that are meant to be shifted when in motion without using the clutch, the clutch is only for stopping and starting.
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Old 08-09-2010, 10:11 AM
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well like i said as of right now it is shifting like butter, very fluid, smooth shifts...the pedal just feels a little off....so im gunna drive it and check the fluid as much as possible, and check both cylinders for any dot3..there doesnt seem to be a leak yet but from what i have read, any fluid at all is bad. so ill let it sorta "settle in"


edit, man i have learned a lot from this headache!
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Old 08-09-2010, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by TTMartin View Post
The worse part about it is that you would have to start the car in 1st gear, I'm not sure where the clutch sensor is on the S2000, if it's on the pedal it would be do able, if it's at the clutch itself, it wouldn't work.
its under the dash and contacts the clutch pedal. you only have to press the clutch down like 3/4" to get the switch to release i believe.

in his case he could probably start the car in gear with all of the slop in it, lol
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Old 08-09-2010, 01:50 PM
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I was once asked to deliver a 1924 Rolls Phaeton to be shipped. Didn't matter whether you used the clutch or not. The shifts still had to be timed right. Another time I had to drive my Speedster across L.A. with no clutch. It was a pain at stop lights, but doable.

Early Porsches had no synchromesh, just crash boxes.
Shifting without a clutch is possible with a little practice.
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Old 08-12-2010, 06:49 PM
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*while knocking on wood*
the fluid change has resolved the problem. thanks for the help guys, never had to do the maintanence for things like that myself
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Old 08-13-2010, 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by whitebrad25 View Post
*while knocking on wood*
the fluid change has resolved the problem.
Thanks for the update, glad you resolved your problem.
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Old 05-23-2017, 06:58 PM
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Cool Honda s2k Clutch Master / Slave Master

Hey everyone, Im having a similar problem!
I bought a 2000 S2k and the guy selling it to me let me know the Clutch Master had a leak and had to be replaced he gave me the part but, I kept refilling the cylinder to drive to school and back (less than 3 miles) and one day driving back I would give it gas but it would no longer move. Previous days as long as I kept the rpms low the car would move no problem UNTIL it wouldnt go any longer

I replaced the CMC, bled the line but still nothing. Car wont grab on to the clutch... The clutch was replaced 20k miles ago and when driving it, it never grinded or smelled of burnt clutch so i doubt its that...

My last guess is that its the slave that needs to be replaced

please some one help! I just ordered the slave
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Old 05-25-2017, 07:19 AM
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Did you replace the clutch or did the original owner "say" he replaced it?
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