My S2000 died on me on the freeway ... Help!!

mdjice · 10-16-2009, 07:35 AM

Ok, I've had the S for a couple of weeks now and didn't notice anything suspicious , but yesterday night I went out with some friends and when I tried to bring the top Up the right window would not come up anymore...ok... So that was the first thing that happened(don't know if it was related to anything though) then I get on my way home driving at normal speed and without pushing the car at all and after 35mn of driving the car dies on me... I try to change gear, nothing .. I press the gas, the car doesn't pick up it just keeps on slowing down and comes to a complete stop on the right shoulder ... I try to start it, it won't,it seams likes it's trying but never gets enough gas to fully start. Almost seamed like I was out of gas (but I have a half tank) seam like the gas doesn't make it's way where it should. I'm thinking , fuel pump? Fuel filter? What do you guys think?
Thanks

turbosix · 10-16-2009, 07:42 AM

your passenger window doesnt work because you accidentally hit the window lock.

fltsfshr · 10-16-2009, 07:44 AM

Put some gas in it and try again. Might be a stuck fuel float.

fltsfshr

Strikker · 10-16-2009, 08:10 AM

I would agree with both turbosix regarding the window and fltsfshr regarding fuel float. I would add one more thing prior to adding fuel, this because you said you have only had the car a couple of weeks. Before you add new fuel, siphon off from the tank maybe a pint of fuel in a glass jar. The idea is to see if there would be anything in the fuel (water, dirt) that might have caused your problem and that you may want to clear prior to adding new fuel. This is just a sanity check, if there is nothing in the fuel you have not spent much time or money.

s2k16803 · 10-16-2009, 08:11 AM

sounds to me like you lost fuel pressure..... does your car have any mods to it's fuel components ...injectors , fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump?....

mdjice · 10-16-2009, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbosix

your passenger window doesnt work because you accidentally hit the window lock.

Ok I'll try that I might have been messing with it thinking it was a lock for the Mirrors or something

Quote:

Originally Posted by fltsfshr

Put some gas in it and try again. Might be a stuck fuel float.

fltsfshr

I put half a tank of gas just yesterday should I try to put more now?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Strikker

I would agree with both turbosix regarding the window and fltsfshr regarding fuel float. I would add one more thing prior to adding fuel, this because you said you have only had the car a couple of weeks. Before you add new fuel, siphon off from the tank maybe a pint of fuel in a glass jar. The idea is to see if there would be anything in the fuel (water, dirt) that might have caused your problem and that you may want to clear prior to adding new fuel. This is just a sanity check, if there is nothing in the fuel you have not spent much time or money.

I'll try that

Quote:

Originally Posted by s2k16803

sounds to me like you lost fuel pressure..... does your car have any mods to it's fuel components ...injectors , fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump?....

Don't know about mods, I just got the car but I think nothing more then the exhaust and intake.

thanks guys...THIS SUCKS!!!

lonestarbuzz · 10-16-2009, 09:16 AM

it's probably due to the increased drag from the body kit.

six is right, though, you hit your window lock. you are not the first. search and you will find some hilarious threads.

mdjice · 10-16-2009, 09:26 AM

ok, thanks turbosix you were right it was the lock.
I posted a video maybe it can help , you can see the engine too so you guys might catch on any mods that would have been done .
thanks everybody

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JEop9OljR4M

turbosix · 10-16-2009, 09:44 AM

i didnt see anything other than the intake, but this nipple should NOT be open like that, its allowing unfiltered air (not much.. but still) into the engine.

your car cranks over pretty slow, i'm going to take a video for you when i go to lunch in the next half hour or so

skatepozer23 · 10-16-2009, 09:53 AM

When the alternator goes out the engine will use the battery to power the ignition system.

Ive had it happen before. when the battery runs out of juice then the engine stops.

That might be your problem

Did any lights in your car dim any towards the end of your 32 minute freeway cruise?

The slow engine turnover could also be related to the alternator or battery

mdjice · 10-16-2009, 10:03 AM

no lights dimed, the battery was working fine I had lights the top was coming up and down no problem. It used to crank much better, i guess it just got slower because I ve been draining the battery trying to start it since yesterday.
I know about the air thingy but it does't suck any air I put my finger on it while reving the engine and no suction can be felt but I will make sure to close it anyways
thanks guys

jagg · 10-16-2009, 10:13 AM

Why don't you shoot a little 2+2 into the intake and see if it fires.

mdjice · 10-16-2009, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jagg

Why don't you shoot a little 2+2 into the intake and see if it fires.

sorry whats a 2+2?

turbosix · 10-16-2009, 11:03 AM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THqoX...=youtube_gdata

WORD · 10-16-2009, 11:07 AM

I got my fingers all ready to type: "at :29, you have a big hole in your intake, block it off." But then tsix beat me too it.

What you have sounds like an alternator problem. Do you have a volt meter? (if not Autozone has one for you). When you get the volt meter, hold the leads to their respective terminals. Red goes to positive, black to negative (I don't mean to insult your intelligence if you knew this, but it seems like you may be new to this). When the engine is off (not a real problem for you...sorry, low blow, I know), you should see 12v. With a good alternator, you should see around 14v when the engine is running. Since you don't have the luxury of starting your engine right now, begin by checking your voltage on the battery, as I instructed earlier. If your battery is dead (or below 12v, which is pretty close to necessary to turn over an engine), you will need to charge it/buy a new one first.

Everything might have worked fine because the previous owner may have charged the battery, and unloaded the car. I don't know that for sure, but it's happened to me, exactly how your's did.

What a bummer, I was in Houston last weekend. Would have been happy to help.

Good luck!

XenoGears · 10-16-2009, 11:20 AM

Whats the average price for a voltmeter? Maybe I should get one.

turbosix · 10-16-2009, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XenoGears

Whats the average price for a voltmeter? Maybe I should get one.

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...rd=multi+meter

mlc · 10-16-2009, 12:09 PM

Is it just me or does that just look like a bad battery??

Start with the basics, pull the battery go to Autozone and have them bench test it.

Kevin

XenoGears · 10-16-2009, 12:12 PM

$59.99 for a voltmeter?!? What do they think, I'm made out of money?!? FUAHHH.... Guess I'll be $60ish down soon.

jagg · 10-16-2009, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Quote:
Originally Posted by jagg

Why don't you shoot a little 2+2 into the intake and see if it fires.

sorry whats a 2+2?

fuel.......in this case.
dude, you've gotta find somebody who can give you a hand.

jagg

mdjice · 10-16-2009, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbosix

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THqoX...=youtube_gdata

yep that's exactly how my car sounded and started before I got the problem yesterday

mdjice · 10-16-2009, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WORD

I got my fingers all ready to type: "at :29, you have a big hole in your intake, block it off." But then tsix beat me too it.

What you have sounds like an alternator problem. Do you have a volt meter? (if not Autozone has one for you). When you get the volt meter, hold the leads to their respective terminals. Red goes to positive, black to negative (I don't mean to insult your intelligence if you knew this, but it seems like you may be new to this). When the engine is off (not a real problem for you...sorry, low blow, I know), you should see 12v. With a good alternator, you should see around 14v when the engine is running. Since you don't have the luxury of starting your engine right now, begin by checking your voltage on the battery, as I instructed earlier. If your battery is dead (or below 12v, which is pretty close to necessary to turn over an engine), you will need to charge it/buy a new one first.

Everything might have worked fine because the previous owner may have charged the battery, and unloaded the car. I don't know that for sure, but it's happened to me, exactly how your's did.

What a bummer, I was in Houston last weekend. Would have been happy to help.

Good luck!

thats nice of you thanks! I will check that right now

TheCarGuy2021 · 10-16-2009, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XenoGears

$59.99 for a voltmeter?!? What do they think, I'm made out of money?!? FUAHHH.... Guess I'll be $60ish down soon.

My multimeter was $500+, quit your whining.

I had a bad connection to my alternator on my S a few years ago, same symptoms you have.

skatepozer23 · 10-16-2009, 01:36 PM

Dude if there is an autozone near you then take out your alternator and bring it in and they will test it for free

mdjice · 10-16-2009, 02:15 PM

tested the battery, it's good. so it has to be the fuel pump, alternator or something like that...hopefuly something not too expensive...

turbosix · 10-16-2009, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdjice

tested the battery, it's good. so it has to be the fuel pump, alternator or something like that...hopefuly something not too expensive...

fuel pump is a pita to get to, supposedly

TheCarGuy2021 · 10-16-2009, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbosix

fuel pump is a pita to get to, supposedly

It's not bad, you're just in an awkward position to get it.

mdjice · 10-16-2009, 02:45 PM

Ok I got a mech to come tow it to his shop, he says it has compression, it doesn't seam to be the alternator he thinks it's an electrical problem like a bad relay, ...expensive problem labor wise?...I would guess not but I'm sure he would hit me for a few hundreds anyways...?

turbosix · 10-16-2009, 02:47 PM

did the check engine light come on as it started acting up?

mdjice · 10-16-2009, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbosix

did the check engine light come on as it started acting up?

nope

skatepozer23 · 10-16-2009, 03:31 PM

It could be something as simple as a bad ground in the electrical system.

I hope it ends up well and not too costly

Good luck

mdjice · 10-16-2009, 06:16 PM

thanks I hope so too

philiam · 10-16-2009, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbosix

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THqoX...=youtube_gdata

Harbor Freight has them for around $5 that work quite well.
WWW.harborfreight.com

jagg · 10-16-2009, 07:05 PM

I think the goal here would be to determine what you're missing to achieve combustion. Air, Fuel, Spark......what ain't happening?

jagg

philiam · 10-16-2009, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jagg

I think the goal here would be to determine what you're missing to achieve combustion. Air, Fuel, Spark......what ain't happening?

jagg

Dammit Jag! There you go using logic again.

jagg · 10-16-2009, 07:26 PM

My ears are especially pointy this time of year, Jim.
That's why you're in charge of the Enterprise.

Most neutral regards,
jagg

mdjice · 10-16-2009, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jagg

I think the goal here would be to determine what you're missing to achieve combustion. Air, Fuel, Spark......what ain't happening?

jagg

seams like I'm not getting a spark

TheCarGuy2021 · 10-16-2009, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdjice

seams like I'm not getting a spark

kigz · 10-16-2009, 11:38 PM

definately cover that hole up in the intake, it's sucking in dust and dirt. Oil filter will clean it up, but for principle , you don't want junk in your engine.

Someone mention sparkplugs, could be but I dont think all the plugs died out at the same exact time, maybe days or week difference inbetween before they die with age and wear, so wouldn't the bad plug not spark while the others do? ultimately making the engine run off the remaining cylinders? Not so sure , so I'm asking.

I believe it could be a bad ground like one stated, if the voltmeter checks out above 12v, then that should be enough to start the car, but make sure your terminals are brushed and clean and TIGHT, if not try wrapping some aluminum foil around the terminal polls of the battery to help fit the terminals. My old battery was sanded and my terminals wouldn't fit no more so I used aluminum foil to help keep it tight. Your car can read 14v all the time, but if your the negitive wire is not tightly grounded, the car will not start! you can actually drive the car with the negitive disconnected after your drive the car, just don't stall or else you will have to plug that negitive back to start it.

another thought, could be your intake also, try cranking the car with the air filter off, that filter could be dirty and clogged not letting the engine get enough air.

That type of problem you have, I've expierenced it many times, all with different type of source of problem, battery connection, ground connection, insufficient and from air intake, old relay( interlock switch) and also a messing with tuning settings from a piggyback system.

What would really help is if you gave a little more detailed description of that last 30 min drive you had, as best as you can, or perhaps things you done, places you went. It could help us narrow things down to direct you to the right path of the problem

kigz · 10-16-2009, 11:43 PM

I know we can rule this out, but that same type of start up sound also was encountered when I was at the dealership. The dealer came out with the wrong key. It was either valet key or another car and the car wouldn't turn over, even though the battery checked out ok and the car was brand new. Just putting that out there.

10-16-2009, 07:35 AM	#1 (permalink)
mdjice MusicMan Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Houston Texas Posts: 79	My S2000 died on me on the freeway ... Help!! Ok, I've had the S for a couple of weeks now and didn't notice anything suspicious , but yesterday night I went out with some friends and when I tried to bring the top Up the right window would not come up anymore...ok... So that was the first thing that happened(don't know if it was related to anything though) then I get on my way home driving at normal speed and without pushing the car at all and after 35mn of driving the car dies on me... I try to change gear, nothing .. I press the gas, the car doesn't pick up it just keeps on slowing down and comes to a complete stop on the right shoulder ... I try to start it, it won't,it seams likes it's trying but never gets enough gas to fully start. Almost seamed like I was out of gas (but I have a half tank) seam like the gas doesn't make it's way where it should. I'm thinking , fuel pump? Fuel filter? What do you guys think? Thanks Last edited by mdjice; 10-16-2009 at 09:36 AM.

10-16-2009, 07:42 AM	#2 (permalink)
turbosix S2000.com Sponsor Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: dallas Posts: 2,486	your passenger window doesnt work because you accidentally hit the window lock. __________________ turbosix.net 1984 buick regal t-type . 2003 gpw s2000 Are you lacking coverage for your prescriptions? Click HERE to print a free discount pharmacy card! Save 10-60% on most medications at 60,000 pharmacies nationwide at no cost to you.

10-16-2009, 08:10 AM	#4 (permalink)
Strikker Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 20	I would agree with both turbosix regarding the window and fltsfshr regarding fuel float. I would add one more thing prior to adding fuel, this because you said you have only had the car a couple of weeks. Before you add new fuel, siphon off from the tank maybe a pint of fuel in a glass jar. The idea is to see if there would be anything in the fuel (water, dirt) that might have caused your problem and that you may want to clear prior to adding new fuel. This is just a sanity check, if there is nothing in the fuel you have not spent much time or money. __________________ Car Alarms are for those who do not have a German Shepherd. Car alarms need to be turned on... German Shepherds are always on! Car alarms wait for the thief to get there... German Shepherds know the thief is there even before the thief does! Car alarms beep and honk... A German Shepherd can clear the back fence, cross the front lawn be past the S2000 and in the thief's face in 1.37 seconds!

10-16-2009, 08:11 AM	#5 (permalink)
s2k16803 Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 78	sounds to me like you lost fuel pressure..... does your car have any mods to it's fuel components ...injectors , fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump?.... __________________ 2005 S2000 turbo 2008 bmw m3 convertible(dads) 2007 Jeep srt8(dads) 2003 Saab 93 aero 2001 Ferrari 575 (Dads)

10-16-2009, 09:44 AM	#9 (permalink)
turbosix S2000.com Sponsor Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: dallas Posts: 2,486	i didnt see anything other than the intake, but this nipple should NOT be open like that, its allowing unfiltered air (not much.. but still) into the engine. your car cranks over pretty slow, i'm going to take a video for you when i go to lunch in the next half hour or so __________________ turbosix.net 1984 buick regal t-type . 2003 gpw s2000 Are you lacking coverage for your prescriptions? Click HERE to print a free discount pharmacy card! Save 10-60% on most medications at 60,000 pharmacies nationwide at no cost to you.

10-16-2009, 07:44 AM	#3 (permalink)
fltsfshr Varietas Delectat Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Naples Fl Posts: 244	Put some gas in it and try again. Might be a stuck fuel float. fltsfshr

10-16-2009, 09:26 AM	#8 (permalink)
mdjice MusicMan Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Houston Texas Posts: 79	ok, thanks turbosix you were right it was the lock. I posted a video maybe it can help , you can see the engine too so you guys might catch on any mods that would have been done . thanks everybody http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JEop9OljR4M

10-16-2009, 09:53 AM	#10 (permalink)
skatepozer23 Enthused Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Dallas, Texas Posts: 99	When the alternator goes out the engine will use the battery to power the ignition system. Ive had it happen before. when the battery runs out of juice then the engine stops. That might be your problem Did any lights in your car dim any towards the end of your 32 minute freeway cruise? The slow engine turnover could also be related to the alternator or battery

10-16-2009, 10:03 AM	#11 (permalink)
mdjice MusicMan Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Houston Texas Posts: 79	no lights dimed, the battery was working fine I had lights the top was coming up and down no problem. It used to crank much better, i guess it just got slower because I ve been draining the battery trying to start it since yesterday. I know about the air thingy but it does't suck any air I put my finger on it while reving the engine and no suction can be felt but I will make sure to close it anyways thanks guys

10-16-2009, 10:13 AM	#12 (permalink)
jagg Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: The Endless Mountains Posts: 3,115	Why don't you shoot a little 2+2 into the intake and see if it fires.

10-16-2009, 11:03 AM	#14 (permalink)
turbosix S2000.com Sponsor Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: dallas Posts: 2,486	http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THqoX...=youtube_gdata __________________ turbosix.net 1984 buick regal t-type . 2003 gpw s2000 Are you lacking coverage for your prescriptions? Click HERE to print a free discount pharmacy card! Save 10-60% on most medications at 60,000 pharmacies nationwide at no cost to you.

10-16-2009, 11:07 AM	#15 (permalink)
WORD Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Arlington, TX Posts: 34	I got my fingers all ready to type: "at :29, you have a big hole in your intake, block it off." But then tsix beat me too it. What you have sounds like an alternator problem. Do you have a volt meter? (if not Autozone has one for you). When you get the volt meter, hold the leads to their respective terminals. Red goes to positive, black to negative (I don't mean to insult your intelligence if you knew this, but it seems like you may be new to this). When the engine is off (not a real problem for you...sorry, low blow, I know), you should see 12v. With a good alternator, you should see around 14v when the engine is running. Since you don't have the luxury of starting your engine right now, begin by checking your voltage on the battery, as I instructed earlier. If your battery is dead (or below 12v, which is pretty close to necessary to turn over an engine), you will need to charge it/buy a new one first. Everything might have worked fine because the previous owner may have charged the battery, and unloaded the car. I don't know that for sure, but it's happened to me, exactly how your's did. What a bummer, I was in Houston last weekend. Would have been happy to help. Good luck!

10-16-2009, 11:20 AM	#16 (permalink)
XenoGears UROBOROS!!! Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: So Cal Posts: 146	Whats the average price for a voltmeter? Maybe I should get one. __________________ JDM= Just Don't Man. Things want done on my 02 Suzuka s2000: New top, Hardtop (with install kit), new radio, new speakers, and ap2 taillights. WTB: OEM/Mugen hardtop (pref. Suzuka Blue) + install kit. Let me know if you wanna sell. Mods done: LED's in license plate, trunk, and dome.

10-16-2009, 12:09 PM	#18 (permalink)
mlc Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Wake Forest, NC Posts: 324	Is it just me or does that just look like a bad battery?? Start with the basics, pull the battery go to Autozone and have them bench test it. Kevin

10-16-2009, 12:12 PM	#19 (permalink)
XenoGears UROBOROS!!! Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: So Cal Posts: 146	$59.99 for a voltmeter?!? What do they think, I'm made out of money?!? FUAHHH.... Guess I'll be $60ish down soon. __________________ JDM= Just Don't Man. Things want done on my 02 Suzuka s2000: New top, Hardtop (with install kit), new radio, new speakers, and ap2 taillights. WTB: OEM/Mugen hardtop (pref. Suzuka Blue) + install kit. Let me know if you wanna sell. Mods done: LED's in license plate, trunk, and dome.

10-16-2009, 01:36 PM	#24 (permalink)
skatepozer23 Enthused Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Dallas, Texas Posts: 99	Dude if there is an autozone near you then take out your alternator and bring it in and they will test it for free

10-16-2009, 02:15 PM	#25 (permalink)
mdjice MusicMan Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Houston Texas Posts: 79	tested the battery, it's good. so it has to be the fuel pump, alternator or something like that...hopefuly something not too expensive...

10-16-2009, 02:45 PM	#28 (permalink)
mdjice MusicMan Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Houston Texas Posts: 79	Ok I got a mech to come tow it to his shop, he says it has compression, it doesn't seam to be the alternator he thinks it's an electrical problem like a bad relay, ...expensive problem labor wise?...I would guess not but I'm sure he would hit me for a few hundreds anyways...? Last edited by mdjice; 10-16-2009 at 02:49 PM.

10-16-2009, 02:47 PM	#29 (permalink)
turbosix S2000.com Sponsor Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: dallas Posts: 2,486	did the check engine light come on as it started acting up? __________________ turbosix.net 1984 buick regal t-type . 2003 gpw s2000 Are you lacking coverage for your prescriptions? Click HERE to print a free discount pharmacy card! Save 10-60% on most medications at 60,000 pharmacies nationwide at no cost to you.

10-16-2009, 03:31 PM	#31 (permalink)
skatepozer23 Enthused Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Dallas, Texas Posts: 99	It could be something as simple as a bad ground in the electrical system. I hope it ends up well and not too costly Good luck

10-16-2009, 06:16 PM	#32 (permalink)
mdjice MusicMan Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Houston Texas Posts: 79	thanks I hope so too

10-16-2009, 07:05 PM	#34 (permalink)
jagg Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: The Endless Mountains Posts: 3,115	I think the goal here would be to determine what you're missing to achieve combustion. Air, Fuel, Spark......what ain't happening? jagg

10-16-2009, 07:26 PM	#36 (permalink)
jagg Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: The Endless Mountains Posts: 3,115	My ears are especially pointy this time of year, Jim. That's why you're in charge of the Enterprise. Most neutral regards, jagg

10-16-2009, 11:38 PM	#39 (permalink)
kigz Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 59	definately cover that hole up in the intake, it's sucking in dust and dirt. Oil filter will clean it up, but for principle , you don't want junk in your engine. Someone mention sparkplugs, could be but I dont think all the plugs died out at the same exact time, maybe days or week difference inbetween before they die with age and wear, so wouldn't the bad plug not spark while the others do? ultimately making the engine run off the remaining cylinders? Not so sure , so I'm asking. I believe it could be a bad ground like one stated, if the voltmeter checks out above 12v, then that should be enough to start the car, but make sure your terminals are brushed and clean and TIGHT, if not try wrapping some aluminum foil around the terminal polls of the battery to help fit the terminals. My old battery was sanded and my terminals wouldn't fit no more so I used aluminum foil to help keep it tight. Your car can read 14v all the time, but if your the negitive wire is not tightly grounded, the car will not start! you can actually drive the car with the negitive disconnected after your drive the car, just don't stall or else you will have to plug that negitive back to start it. another thought, could be your intake also, try cranking the car with the air filter off, that filter could be dirty and clogged not letting the engine get enough air. That type of problem you have, I've expierenced it many times, all with different type of source of problem, battery connection, ground connection, insufficient and from air intake, old relay( interlock switch) and also a messing with tuning settings from a piggyback system. What would really help is if you gave a little more detailed description of that last 30 min drive you had, as best as you can, or perhaps things you done, places you went. It could help us narrow things down to direct you to the right path of the problem Last edited by kigz; 10-16-2009 at 11:40 PM.

10-16-2009, 11:43 PM	#40 (permalink)
kigz Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 59	I know we can rule this out, but that same type of start up sound also was encountered when I was at the dealership. The dealer came out with the wrong key. It was either valet key or another car and the car wouldn't turn over, even though the battery checked out ok and the car was brand new. Just putting that out there.

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