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Old 08-05-2009, 06:08 PM   #1
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car wont start

sooo, I will forever hate 8/5/09.... my company closed its doors today, suddenly so my mom and I are unemployed alone with my dad & brother now, but as if that wasnt enough I decided to take my car to discount tire to have them replace a tire with a nail inside it. my car is an 04 25K on it, perfect, no problems.

Well, they call me from the waiting room and tell me my car is done and they'll pull it out front, okay fine they always do that... so I get in my car and the damn CEL is on, I was like WTF, so I turn the car off and turn back on to see if it comes back on and it did. so I turn the car off, get out and proceed to go in and pulled the manager outside, turned the car on and showed him, took his card and told him YOU GUYS WILL PAY for this if it has anything to do with anything you touch...

so I get home, the code of course my BF DOENST write down, but it was a heater code, not sure why when its 100+ here in TX and my damn heater hasnt been on since Ive owned the car.

anyways so he clears it and the car wont start, not a nothing but the noise from the push to start button clicking one time, NOT several clicks...

Any ideas, my friend is coming over later to test battersy just to see and to push the car outta the garage and cluth start it, he says if the car clutch starts its the starter and if not its the ignition? would that be true? idk much and when I get my car towed to Honda tomorrow I dont want to get d***** around, b/c I just lost my job & REALLY dont have the extra $$$ to be fixing crap...

any advice would be GREATLY appreciated, as you can tell im not to happy at the moment.
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Old 08-05-2009, 07:59 PM   #2
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Sounds like it might be the battery. There is a heater that has nothing to do with warmth in the car, but does have to do with emissions. Someone jump in hear and clarify that, I'm having a brain cramp as to what it's called.
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Old 08-05-2009, 07:59 PM   #3
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Okay so my friend came over and heres the extra info we found out, car still wont start, battery is fine, we clutch started the car and it started but the power steering would not work, belts and fluid are all fine, engine is fine, battery is only thing running the car, the voltage while running was 6 and by the way all the lights in the car screen would not work, the MPH, the gallons, and the CEL is back on but the deivce that read the first CEL is giving the thing and error and says it must be plugged in but it was... and yeah, I am at a loss for words... could this be electrical or would it be something else? i'm having it towed to Honda tomorrow but i REALLY dont want to get scrweed so anything you can give experience advice please please please let me know.
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Old 08-05-2009, 08:03 PM   #4
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So your car gets a check engine light and its automatically the dealerships fault so you go in and bitch em out wow thats classy. If I had to guess your alt went and is causing all kinds of issues including your code but thats just a random guess. Oh and phil is correct it was most likely the heater for the o2.
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Old 08-05-2009, 08:07 PM   #5
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first thing would def be to check the battery although i dont see why it would go from working to not working in such a short span how long was the car in the shop did they leave your headlights on or maybe left the key on accessory and drained the battery? (has the battery ever been changed?) The clutch start is not a bad idea but first bang the starter with a hammer a few times then try to start it, dont hit to hard it may just be jammed. let me know how things work out hope this helps
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Old 08-05-2009, 08:11 PM   #6
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Id also be interested in knowing how your friend determined the battery is good a simple multi meter cant do that. I also didnt see anywhere that you tried to jump the car? Why you would try to pop start it before jumping it is beyond me.
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Old 08-05-2009, 08:12 PM   #7
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s2000isu,

I am a little upset at the moment, I lost my job and now my car doesnt work, its bad enough I had to spend $$$ today to get the tire fixed when that $$ should be saved for future bills, but I need a good car to get me to and from job interviews, dr's appts and so forth.

I feel I had EVERY RIGHT to blame them, you mean to tell me put yourself in my shoes and you take your car somewhere, sit there for 1.5hrs and the car was fine nothing wrong going in and you get it back and get a CEL already on when you get in the car. I'm hoping its something as simple as the altinator tomorrow when I take it in, but I came here looking for advice not getting called out on how classy I am.

Sure maybe I overreacted by going in there and talking to them, i didnt literally B**** them out, I pulled the manager outside and said look this is on and it wasnt when I came in to have service done with you, if its something to do with anything you mess with or my ignition/starter then you guys will be paying for it, he gave me his card and said I understand, call me when you have information and we will go from there. so thats what I intend to do. I am not happy right now, i've lost an alternator in another car and i didnt think it would be that b/c it didnt do the same thing as the last one, so i rled that out to begin with.
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Old 08-05-2009, 08:13 PM   #8
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we didnt have jumper cables... work with what you got... isnt that what you do...
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Old 08-05-2009, 08:15 PM   #9
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first thing would def be to check the battery although i dont see why it would go from working to not working in such a short span how long was the car in the shop did they leave your headlights on or maybe left the key on accessory and drained the battery? (has the battery ever been changed?) The clutch start is not a bad idea but first bang the starter with a hammer a few times then try to start it, dont hit to hard it may just be jammed. let me know how things work out hope this helps

my friend already left, I a called the towing company through my insurance and the dealership is less then 4 miles so it wont cost me to tow it. I dont know, we dont have tools here, my bf and I arent mechanical people so we dont own much of anything to work on or mess with a car...
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Old 08-05-2009, 08:16 PM   #10
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no more ideas here... it def sucks but honda should tell u pretty quick whats wrong, to bad they charge 90$ an hour. ive got them doing major work on my car right now for that price so things can always be worse. if u have AAA the tow is free at least
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Old 08-05-2009, 08:17 PM   #11
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If the voltage is 6 volts when running then the alternator or regulator has failed. Be careful because if you leave a lead acid battery in a discharged state it will also fail and need to be replaced. So charge it back up with a charger or in another car.

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Old 08-05-2009, 08:21 PM   #12
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I am pretty confident that I would have enough common sense to know that a place chaning my tire is not going to cause a cel. If you read my post you would take notice that I actually did ask some questions that are probably pretty important to figuring out why your car isnt working correctly.
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Old 08-05-2009, 08:30 PM   #13
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So your car gets a check engine light and its automatically the dealerships fault so you go in and bitch em out wow thats classy. If I had to guess your alt went and is causing all kinds of issues including your code but thats just a random guess. Oh and phil is correct it was most likely the heater for the o2.
What exactly does the heater do for the o2? (im assuming 02 sensor, but u know what assuming does) never heard of this before?
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Old 08-05-2009, 08:35 PM   #14
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well I watched the guy at my car trying to figure out how to start it, he didnt know it was a push to start and it freaked me out that he would try and force the ignition like it was wheel locked...so yeah I am going to be a little nervous and scared and I am a female that doesnt know alot about cars if much at all.... I think any or most common women would see that on and be liek WTF... what did you do, b/c we dont know, I am here trying to learn, so cut me some slack. please
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Old 08-05-2009, 08:45 PM   #15
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From google

The HO2S incorporates an internal electric heating element to bring the O2 sensor up to operating temperature quickly (under 35 seconds). Internal heating elements usually operate continuously while the engine is running to maintain an operating temperature of approximately 1292 degrees Fahrenheit to 1472 degrees Fahrenheit. Heated O2 sensors operate at a more consistent temperature and allow greater flexibility of placement locations in the exhaust system.
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Old 08-05-2009, 09:13 PM   #16
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cool good to know thnx
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Old 08-05-2009, 09:45 PM   #17
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The only way to test a battery is to charge it fully and test it with a load on it. And yes a battery left in an uncharged state will develop a sulfate coating on the plates and will not hold a charge.
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Old 08-05-2009, 09:46 PM   #18
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Hopefully it is something simple like a blown fuse.
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:19 PM   #19
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You said the steering wasn't working either right, Sounds electrical since our steering is electrical as well.

Easy on the lady ISU, pretty sure were here to help not bash the girl, She is the only girl we have left here...
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:48 PM   #20
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From google

The HO2S incorporates an internal electric heating element to bring the O2 sensor up to operating temperature quickly (under 35 seconds). Internal heating elements usually operate continuously while the engine is running to maintain an operating temperature of approximately 1292 degrees Fahrenheit to 1472 degrees Fahrenheit. Heated O2 sensors operate at a more consistent temperature and allow greater flexibility of placement locations in the exhaust system.
It can all be related, if the voltage is low then the O2 sensor heater will not get to temp. And all those other things like the dash light won't work at 6 volts either.

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Old 08-06-2009, 12:06 AM   #21
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You said the steering wasn't working either right, Sounds electrical since our steering is electrical as well.
I was just about to say this. Since our power steering is the electronic power steering, and if it doesn't work when started up, that could have something to do with it.

Are you sure the code is for the heater? Can you check to see if there's more codes?
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Old 08-06-2009, 12:12 AM   #22
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I really doesn't matter what codes it shows. If the charging system is fixed then all the codes can be cleared with no ill effects.

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Old 08-06-2009, 12:16 AM   #23
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My first thought is to reset the ECU and then have the battery fully recharged and then try again.
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Old 08-06-2009, 12:31 AM   #24
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My first thought is to reset the ECU and then have the battery fully recharged and then try again.
Go is right. Don't start replacing things ***** nilly. Check out the battery first. Always start with the easiest and cheapest part and go from there.
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Old 08-06-2009, 12:34 AM   #25
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I'm guessing it is the battery. Take the battery out and take it to an auto zone or some other auto parts store. They can charge it and then test it. A dead battery can do a bunch of weird things. Plus, they are very easy to take out on the s2000. The charge and test of the battery should be free too.
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Old 08-06-2009, 03:53 AM   #26
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I would say battery as well you might have checked the charge and it may say its good, but it could be a weak/bad battery for those here who had one you know what I mean. Anyway go get a battery or borrow one from another car just to see if thats what it is since your funds are tight and try it out wont hurt anything.
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Old 08-06-2009, 03:55 AM   #27
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Sorry about the job Jessa. And the car. Sounds like a bad day for sure. I hope things shape up for you soon.
Low voltage will make all those things happen. I had a car with a dead battery and jumped it and it still wouldn't run right until I replaced the battery. I don't presume to know whats going on with your car though. Good luck.
EDIT: And I should say that if those things happened to me, anyone around me would know just exactly how I felt.
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Old 08-06-2009, 06:15 AM   #28
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well, these are all great suggestions, but I have a few problems, I have no way to do anything, no car... all of my friends are at work till the evening and lack of tools/experience. i was going to take the car to honda and pull the service manager aside and literally show him my laid off letter where our company shut down and be like look, i need this fixed, i dont need to be dicked around, and Idk... im hoping he has a heart... Plus I am going to call 1 of my friends this am after 8 here, I know he has a friend whose a honda mechanic but Idk whihc one he works at, im hoping its the 1 i am taking the car to and I can get my friend to call in a favor to make sure i am taken care of the best they can at least...
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Old 08-06-2009, 06:40 AM   #29
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ok, scratch going to Honda, I just got off the phoen with them and the soonest they can look at it is Monday, i need this fixed b4 monday...
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Old 08-06-2009, 07:06 AM   #30
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Hey Jessa,


You don't need a Honda dealer to fix this problem.

You need a regular repair shop to check the voltage at the alternator while it's running. Worst case scenario, you need and alternator and a battery. Not a huge deal in the world of auto repairs.

sorry 'bout the job.
You'll get another one soon enough kiddo.

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Old 08-06-2009, 07:25 AM   #31
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Quote:
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It can all be related, if the voltage is low then the O2 sensor heater will not get to temp. And all those other things like the dash light won't work at 6 volts either.

Jonathan
I agree with you my guess is its a alt problem causing all the crazy issues. I just put that up about the o2 because dingle had a question about the o2 heater.

And rl as far as taking it easy on her are you kidding?
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Old 08-06-2009, 05:59 PM   #32
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Jessica, I would suggest getting in contact with another local S2000 owner. There may be someone close to you that would not mind stopping by and taking a look. S2KCA has A LOT of people in Texas that own S2000's. Yes, I know TX is a VERY large state, but it doesn't hurt to try.

http://forums.s2kca.com/forumdisplay.php?f=10
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Old 08-06-2009, 08:17 PM   #33
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Jessica, I would suggest getting in contact with another local S2000 owner. There may be someone close to you that would not mind stopping by and taking a look. S2KCA has A LOT of people in Texas that own S2000's. Yes, I know TX is a VERY large state, but it doesn't hurt to try.

http://forums.s2kca.com/forumdisplay.php?f=10
I agree, I would and do help out fellow S2000 owners locally.

I think that the tire place left your car ignition in the on position (especially since they didn't know how to start it) and drained an already, possibly weak, battery.

A healthy battery will read around 13+ volts. A battery reading 6 volts is useless to any of the cars electrical components.
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Old 08-06-2009, 08:52 PM   #34
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I would say battery as well you might have checked the charge and it may say its good, but it could be a weak/bad battery for those here who had one you know what I mean. Anyway go get a battery or borrow one from another car just to see if thats what it is since your funds are tight and try it out wont hurt anything.
I think the salient point was the 6 volt reading while it was running. Even if the battery was dead and the car was jump started the voltage would be at maximum, near 15 volts. The problem has to be the charging system. Either the regulator or the alternator. 6 volts indicates it's running on a nearly dead battery. Or a meter on the wrong scale.

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Old 08-06-2009, 09:53 PM   #35
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The fact that it was only cranking 6 volts with the car running leads me to believe that it is a bad alternator/regulator as Desmo said. If you can get the alternator off (2 bolts) Auto Zone will test it free of charge. They can also test the battery for free as yours may be sulfated by now.
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Old 08-06-2009, 10:01 PM   #36
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If you can get the alternator off (2 bolts) Auto Zone will test it free of charge. They can also test the battery for free as yours may be sulfated by now.
Heck, if you could get the car to AutoZone and be wearing a short skirt, I bet one of the parts jockey's would take the alternator off for you!! I know I would.
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Old 08-06-2009, 10:10 PM   #37
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Be advised the regulator is in the alternator, but can be purchased separately. So you could save some $$ as it is unlikely both are bad.

Jonathan
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Old 08-07-2009, 09:51 AM   #38
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i have all sorts of issues with this

99.9% it is the alternator

removing an alternator is not a "mechanic" job on these cars from what i've seen

you should at the very least have a cheap *** set of tools from northern or harbor freight... $90 diagnostic fee? **** for $90 you can buy enough tools to do most repair jobs and LEARN FOR FREE

what you NEED to do is buy some cheap tools, pull the alternator and take it to autozone. they can put it on a alternator dyno and see what the issue is. take the battery as well.

if its the battery (doubtful) problem solved. if its the alternator (likely) walk out and call these guys:

http://maps.google.com/maps?oe=utf-8...31438960071646

or somewhere closer to you with the information autozone gave you about what was wrong with the alt.

$700+ from majestic honda, LOL... what a fkin rip off... have a local shop replace the part that is bad for <$100 and you're good to go.
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Old 08-07-2009, 02:24 PM   #39
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You numbers are completely wrong. An alternator from Majestic costs. $250.70. In any event you will probably need a battery. Common flooded electrolyte batteries don't tolerate deep discharges. They never recover to 100 %.

Jonathan
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Last edited by desmo4; 08-07-2009 at 02:28 PM.
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Old 08-07-2009, 02:53 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desmo4 View Post
You numbers are completely wrong. An alternator from Majestic costs. $250.70. In any event you will probably need a battery. Common flooded electrolyte batteries don't tolerate deep discharges. They never recover to 100 %.

Jonathan
the battery will last for years, ugh, why people flip the fvck out when a battery goes dead is beyond me.

in any case, i dont know what was up with majestic's site this morning but i put money it said $70x.xx for an alternator, i could not believe it.

i checked again and it says $250 now... no clue why it said different this morning.
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Old 08-07-2009, 02:53 PM
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