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Old 04-16-2012, 07:49 PM   #1
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transmission removal and installation

doing my first s2000 trans removal and was finding much more work involved than your typical rear wheel drive car. any tips or experiences that might help make it easier would be great.
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:43 PM   #2
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I hate to be a smartass, but just do a internet search for "S2000 clutch replacement" or "S2000 transmission removal". You should find all that you are looking for. I've never pulled the trany on a S2000 but I've come across multiple threads about it. It sounds like a PIA.
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Old 04-17-2012, 12:37 AM   #3
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There are about 30 steps to removing the transmission. Nearly half of them have little tricks that one person or another has found. Some folks, like myself, actually add a step here or there.

The thrust of a lot of the work is to tilt the motor rearward in order to gain access to the two topmost bolts holding the clutch case section of the transmission to the cylinder block.

You start with removal of the shift assembly for all of the obvious reasons. The next 15 pr 20 steps are all intended to allow the motor to be tilted without damage to any system.

When removing the steering joint to avoid damage to the power steering torque sensor, I also unbolt the steering column inside the car. It's not in the manual but it makes the job more doable.

One of the tough parts is removal and replacement of the top mounting bolt on the starter. It runs from the front through and secures into the clutch case segment of the transmission. An expert on this recommends shining a LED light stalk down between the two last runners on the intake manifold to illuminate the bolt while observing through the second and third runners as you are sliding a socket on a long extension (I use a 24" extension.) to unscrew the bolt. I did not say remove the bolt because he does not do that. He leaves it hanging in the hole to make it easier to reassemble.

I do the opposite. I remove the autotensioner base, the intake log brace and disconnect the knock sensor so that I can just lay an LED light in there and have a clear shot to remove and replace the bolt without risk.

The expert unclips the harness connectors from the manifold stay, I don't. I unbolt it.

The expert does not disconnect the power steering connector, I do.

The expert does not unclip the TDC sensors. I do.

When unplugging the connectors for the O2 sensors, speed sensor and reverse switch, I mark the plugs before unplugging to make a match even though the gender and wire count for the plugs are unique. The expert does not.

I remove the CAT or TP, the expert simply disconnects the exhaust manifold and holds it aside with a bungy.

I use two OEM jacks to support the front subframe while dropping the support bolts. The expert places a block of wood on a jack saddle to use the jack to hold and lower the front subframe.

The expert removes the two upper transmission clutch case bolts from on top of the motor. I use a 30" extension run over the top of the transmission from under the car to get and replace them.

If you are not going to disassemble the transmission, there is no need to remove the rear mount as the manual says.

Ryan's suggestion is good. Do some research on what others have written. You can use the tricks that you find to modify the process set out in the Helms manual. However, the Helms manual itself, is the definitive guide.

BTW, to replace these remote bolts I cut strips of aluminum tape and put them into my socket (some 14mm and some 17mm) until the bolt head binds sufficiently to prevent the bolt from falling out and make it maneuverable but not enough that the socket will pull off of the extension when you try to remove it.

If you get stuck, feel free to send a PM to me.
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Old 04-17-2012, 12:28 PM   #4
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WOW...really, WOW that is awesome. I sure am glad there are good folks like L8apex on this site. Think about it, where would you get stuff like that?
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Old 04-17-2012, 03:48 PM   #5
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IMO the worst part is getting to the starter's bolt. You need a long extension, a swivel, and a second elbow on your arm. In my case once I get the socket on the bolt and I start to apply pressure the socket rolls off and I have to start all over.
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Old 04-18-2012, 12:05 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by tuna79 View Post
IMO the worst part is getting to the starter's bolt. You need a long extension, a swivel, and a second elbow on your arm. In my case once I get the socket on the bolt and I start to apply pressure the socket rolls off and I have to start all over.
Right. I do use a 24" extension for that bolt and a 30" extension to pull the bolts at the top of the clutch housing (1-14mm and 2-17mm).

The delicacy of the task is very much why I pull all of the crap above the alternator and under the intake log and disconnect the knock sensor. I can then go straight in at the bolt without a u-joint, or wobbly extension for both removal and replacement.

Fear of failure will drive me to extreme limits from time to time.
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Old 09-29-2014, 02:38 PM   #7
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Hey guys. So I dropped my tranny to replace the clutch. Used the method where you back out the subframe bolts and tilt the engine back. Now I'm having a really hard time getting it back in. Everything is aligned the same way as when the tranny came out, with the engine tilted back and the subframe lowered. However, when I tried to re-install the tranny I can't get the input shaft to go high enough into the throwout bearing without having the case hitting the transmission tunnel / body. Any suggestions on what to do to get the engine lower or get things to align? I backed out the subframe bolts about as far as is safe to do without having the entire assembly drop on my head. It seems that the whole assembly was designed with such small clearances that things need to be finagled into place at certain angles etc.
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Old 09-29-2014, 04:52 PM   #8
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The logic of having had enough clearance to remove the transmission without now having enough clearance, without any changes, to reinstall the transmission fails on me. ???

Are you sure that you don't have a spline misalignment that's blocking your install?
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Old 09-30-2014, 04:42 AM   #9
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We had to let the tranny hang on the input shaft just to get it out. I remember we had to wiggle the crap out of it. Plus the new clutch/flywheel is aftermarket so it could be they are slightly thicker than stock. In either case, it doesnt look like it'll fit. Any way to get more clearance?
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